Saturday, 8 November 2008

Michelin starred restaurants (Europe)

I can't help but wonder how the inspectors picked the Michelin starred restaurants/ S.Pellegrino's 50 best restaurants. Some of the restaurants on these lists are just above-average and extremely overpriced, but I guess food (and beauty) is a matter of opinion, so we can only assume that the experts know what they are talking about.

I have been very privileged and have enjoyed many fine restaurants around the globe, including many Michelin starred restaurants. I am not a restaurant critic but I have certain standards and preferences. I believe that dining out is not just about the food, it's also about the service, atmosphere, company and mood of the diners. Some of the best meals I have had were not in Michelin starred restaurants, but rustic/ traditional family-run restaurants that serve simple and fresh food without much fuss. I can't stand some of the 'hip & trendy' restaurants with snotty service, they are just not worth the time & money. Great service makes a huge difference to the dining experience, I wish all restauranteurs would understand this.

Personally, I think the most diverse and high-quality restaurants are located in New York City and Tokyo. London is slightly over-hyped and over-priced for what you get, whereas Paris is best for French cuisine only (the French will probably dispute over this). Hong Kong used to be excellent for food but I feel that the standard has slipped over the past few years, not quite sure why... And then there's Moscow... hmm... what can I say... I feel sorry for those Moscovites who pay so much for such average food, it probably explains why they are all fleeing to London!

Here is a list of the Michelin starred restaurants I have visited over the years (in Europe) as well as my experiences and honest opinions:

Paris

3* L'Arpege - Excellent seafood and subtle flavours. Friendly service, not at all pretentious.

2* Les Ambassadeurs - Opulent setting, professional service. I remember the setting, champagne & waiters, but unfortunately I can't remember much else...

2* Senderens - After much anticipation, my experience turned out to be quite disappointing. The Asian fusion cuisine didn't do much for me, in fact, I got quite sick after the meal! Service was a bit cold & rushed.

2* Les Elysees du Vernet - Food was a bit too heavy but the service was friendly & attentive. What a beautiful dining room!

2* L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon - Went there soon after it opened, was quite blown away by the concept and originality. Thoroughly enjoyed the tasting menu! The flavours and combinations of ingredients were amazing, the best fusion cooking I have ever had!

1* Gerard Besson - Very traditional French, nothing special but excellent service.

1* L'Espadon @ The Ritz - Was very impressed overall, thought the cooking would be quite traditional with heavy sauces etc, but it wasn't. Faultless service.

1* Dominque Bouchet - What a disappointment, considering how famous he is in France and Japan! The tasting menu was nothing special, in fact, it was one of the most disappointing tasting menu I have ever had! Everything was quite bland...

1* L'Angle du Faubourg - Professional service combined with high quality cooking and reasonable prices. A low-key but excellent establishment.

1* Maison Blanche - Great setting and original cooking, though not so fond of the pretentious/ trendy crowd.

1* Gaya par Pierre Gagnaire - A real surprise! Tiny and casual place but the cooking (mainly seafood) was creative and excellent at the same time. Will want to go back for more!

London/ U.K.

3* The Waterside Inn - Cosy hotel and great location, but are the 3 stars awarded for the cooking or the legacy of Michel Roux?! The tasting menu's portions were far too generous and on the heavy side with very rich sauces. Impeccable service but not sure if this should be the top 3 restaurants in the country...

Afternoon tea at Le Manoir

2* Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons - Why is this not 3 starred? I have no idea. I think the cooking is inventive and full of flavours. Tried 2 of their tasting menus, and I highly recommend the 10-course Découverte menu. Unpretentious service and setting, oh, and breakfast was wonderful too!

2* Le Gavroche - Strangely, I had a better experience at Le Gavroche than The Waterside Inn. I really enjoyed the food, wine, atmosphere and service. A first class restaurant!

2* Petrus - Went there for lunch and found the lunch menu quite reasonable (for a 2 Michelin starred restaurant). The food got mixed reviews from us, perhaps Marcus wasn't around that afternoon?!

1* Club Gascon - Been there twice, enjoyed it both times. The wine went extremely well with the food, but service was just okay.

1* Gordon Ramsay at Claridges - Despite all the negative reviews about this place, I enjoyed my meal here. Food and service was top notch, no complaints from me!

1* Hakkasan - Not sure how this place managed to get a Michelin star?! Is it the decor? The hype? I'm sure anyone who has lived/been to Hong Kong would ask the same question. Overpriced and over-hyped, but I did enjoy their cocktails!

1* Yauatcha - The 90-min time slot was awful. We were rushed and reminded constantly to return the table by a certain time. The dim sum was tasty and desserts were delicious but the service + seating arrangement was a letdown!

1* Nobu - Not as good as Nobu in NYC and steeper prices too!

Baked rice @ Benares
1* Benares - After watching 'Great British Menu' on BBC2, I was eager to try Atul's cooking! I was expecting some creative Indian cooking, but nothing I had was THAT special. Good meal, nice dining room and high prices !

1* Tamarind - Again, I am puzzled by the Michelin star given to this restaurant. Above average Indian and so so service... what did I miss?!

1* Sketch (lecture room) - Been to both lecture room & gallery. Gallery is a place to see and be seen, whereas the lecture room is for serious foodies. I found the cooking too fussy and complicated, it wasn't a particularly memorable meal.

1* L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon - Having been to the Paris and NY branches, I was anxious to see if the London one would live up to the 'Robuchon' standards. Even though this chain is expanding quicker than Starbucks, I still love the concept and cooking! I can eat here once a week without being bored! I also love the bar upstairs, it's feels like a private member's club!

1* Mirabelle - I am surprised to find out that this place has a Michelin star. Not that it wasn't good, it just wasn't outstanding. Nice dining room and professional service, food was classic French. Nothing special.

1* Rhodes W1 - Not a fan of Gary Rhodes but did enjoy my meal here. The place was empty when we were there, so we got all the attention!

Rome

1* L’Altro Mastai - Was looking forward to my first Michelin starred establishment in Rome after reading many positive reviews, but sadly, the experience didn't meet my expectations. Food wasn't memorable nor outstanding and service was ok.

Langoustines & seafood soup at Quinzi & Gabrieli


1* Quinzi & Gabrieli - Wow!! Haven't had such fresh & amazing seafood for a long time! Very simple cooking techniques and yet everything we had was excellent! The steamed langoustines were so sweet! Very warm & friendly service in a touristy area, will go back there again & again! One of the best seafood places I have ever been to!

Mallorca

Dessert at Bacchus
1* Bacchus at Read's hotel - Beautiful 16th century dining room! The food was good but maybe not as magnificent as the setting. Professional service, a pleasant experience.

1* Koldo Royo (lost his star in 2008 after 18 years with Michelin!) - Went there twice when the chef still had his star! Thought the menu & food was adventurous and brave, a good place to enjoy bold & flavoursome Basque cuisine in an informal setting.

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