Wednesday 29 July 2009

Art, design & photography exhibitions (Oct 08- July 09)

Ever since I was a teenager, I have been going to art, design and photography exhibitions regularly. I am lucky because I have always lived in cities where arts and culture play important roles in their societies. The only exception is Hong Kong, where art and other culture activities are not appreciated by the masses. It's a real shame because these events can bring some much joy, knowledge and inspiration to our lives.

In the past year, I have visited many museums and exhibitions in different cities as well as my hometown, London. Some were excellent, and some weren't. I am not an art critic, but as a viewer, I expect the work (whatever form it is) to evoke my senses (i.e. visually) and emotions, whether it is sadness, anger, joy or disgust. Not every work that stirs up emotions can be regarded as good but at least it is communicating to the viewers. Everyone has his/ her own preferences, so like food and music, art is completely personal and bias. I suppose this is what makes art so interesting and controversial. Here are my personal thoughts and brief accounts of the shows that I visited in the past 9 months:

TOKYO

Tadao Ando architecture – Challenges – Faithful to the basis, Gallery Ma ( Oct - Dec 2008)
When we arrived at the gallery on a Friday afternoon, we were surprised to see the place completely packed, little did we know that Ando himself was about to give a short speech THERE! I probably would have been more thrilled if I could understand Japanese... nonetheless, it was still a 'celebrity' sighting for us! The free retrospective had models, photographs, sketches and even a life recreation of the row house in Sumiyoshi, Osaka, built back in 1976. For someone who has never had official training in architecture, Ando's achievement in the architectural world is simply astonishing. A comprehensive and organised exhibition with a bookshop downstairs that sells a wide range of architecture and design books.

"Second Nature" directed by:Tokujin Yoshioka, 21_21 design sight (Oct 2008 - Jan 2009)
Thought-provoking theme and concept with lots of aesthetically pleasing displays and ice sculptures, but I didn't feel emotionally engaged with the work. Quite disappointing esp. after seeing the outstanding "XXIst Century Man" by Issey Miyaki exhibition here earlier in the summer.




HONG KONG

DesignEx08, Innocentre (Dec 10-28, 2008)
To coincide with the Business of Design week in Hong Kong, this exhibition was organised in collaboration with Amsterdam's Stedilijk Museum, Fashion Institute and The Hague's Academy of Art. It showcased Dutch talents in various disciplines such as architecture, graphics and fashion. One of the interesting part was the cross-cultural graphic posters designed by Hong Kong and Dutch designers. It's a shame that these major design exhibitions only happen in Hong Kong once or twice a year! Hong Kong design students need to be exposed to more exhibitions like this to widen their horizons.


PARIS

Ron Arad: No Discipline, Centre Pompidou (Nov 2008 - March 2009)
One of the most famous industrial designers/ architects of our times... Ron's work is dramatic, fun, colourful, uplifting and innovative (in terms of form, material and production). This exhibition was cool, contemporary and definitely worth visiting even if you are not a designer/ architect. The next stop will be in Moma, New York from August til October.

Le Futurisme à Paris, Centre Pompidou (Oct 2008 - Jan 2009)
Quite a big exhibition on Futurism, the first avant-garde movement of the 20th century in Paris. Featuring many big names like Picasso and Duchamp as well as some less- known artists from Russia, Italy and England. A well-curated show but a bit gloomy.

Wa: L’Harmonie au Quotidien – design Japonais d’aujourd’hui/ WA: The Spirit of Harmony in Contemporary Japanese Design , Maison de la culture du Japon ( Oct 2008 – Jan 2009)
I love Japanese designs and so was thrilled when I found out about this exhibition during my short stay in Paris. The exhibition space was not big but it showcased tableware, kitchenware, home electronics, toys, stationery, lighting and furniture etc. The objects were selected to convey the essence of contemporary Japanese designs. Some were technologically innovative, some humourous, but mostly user-friendly. Overall, an impressive exhibition confirming the status and influences of Japanese designs in our world today.

A mestizo planet to mix or not to mix, Musee du quai Branly (March 2008- July 2009)
After visiting the Japanese Foundation by the Seine, I walked past this 3 year-old museum near the Eiffel Tower. I was pleasantly-surprised by exterior of the modern architecture (designed by Jean Nouvel), its landscape garden and the subject matter of the museum (the arts of Africa, Oceania, Asia, and the Americas). The collection is vast and impressive, but I was completely disoriented at the beginning, it took me quite a while to get used to interwoven collection in each section. I found the layout messy, disjointed and lighting too dim. The small anthropology exhibition upstairs which explored the mixing of cultures, races, communications and lifestyles seemed fascinating on paper, but lacked depth and focus in my opinion. However, I still think the museum is worth visiting (just for the architecture alone), but there is definitely room for improvement.




LONDON

Place/No Place: Anish Kapoor in Architecture, RIBA (Oct 15 - Nov 8, 2008)
A small but immensely engaging and thought-provoking exhibition. I am glad that I managed to see it just before it ended. The detailed miniature architectural/ sculptural models (around 30 pf them) were beautifully crafted and presented. Although the models were small but you could see the concept as well as the Freudism and Buddhism influences on his work. I am really looking forward to his forthcoming major exhibition at the Royal Academy!

Cold War Modern: Design 1945 – 1970, Victoria & Albert Museum (Sept 2008 – Jan 2009)
A huge exhibition with hundreds of objects including fashion, posters, furniture, architecture, films and product designs etc. My friend found the exhibition rather depressing but I thought it was quite captivating. There was a lot of information to digest but it was interesting to see how politics affected the architectural and design world during the cold war era. The film on Cuba (the hedonistic days) was particularly intriguing...

Annie Leibovitz, a photographer’s life 1990-2005, National Portrait Gallery (Oct 2008 - Feb 2009)
Being one of the most famous photographers of our generation, Annie Leibovitz's exhibition did not disappoint. There were many celebrity photos, but the best part was her personal ones on friends and family... very touching.

Babylon – Myth and Reality, British Museum
(Nov 2008 – March 2009)
Ever since I was kid, I have had this fascination with Persia esp. Baghdad, mainly because of the Sinbad cartoon! My heart sank when I watched the Americans bombing Iraq on TV, it was hard to imagine how many artifacts and archaeological sites were destroyed by them. My fear was proved right at the exhibition... so much was lost and destroyed by Saddam Hussein and the Americans, it's devastating. The highlights of this exhibition included the different interpretations/ paintings of the Tower of Babel, Hanging Gardens, 'Nebuchadnezzar', and model of the Processional Way and Ishtar Gate. However, I was slightly disappointed because I was expecting a bigger collection... I guess I will need to visit Iraq one day to fully satisfy my curiosity and fascination.

Byzantium 330-1453, Royal Academy of Arts (Oct 2008 – March 2009)
A major Royal Academy exhibition featuring the splendid art work and manuscripts from the Byzantine Empire. Usually I am not a fan of religious-themed art, but I was stunned to see the craftsmanship and techniques in many of the religious artifacts on display. Nonetheless, it was the amazing mosaic work that really captivated me... a great show that reflected the wealth, history and influences of the Byzantines.

Altermodern: Tate Triennial 2009, Tate Britain (Feb – April 2009)
A huge and ambitious show displaying work from mostly contemporary British artists. There was a lot to see but my friend and I did not appreciate all the so-called modern art pieces. The more memorable ones were: Subodh Gupta's gigantic installation 'Line of Control' (stainless kitchen utensils connected and piled on top of each other); the bamboo forest installation (not sure who the artist is), David Noonan's large cardboard cutouts and Spartacus Chetwynd's film shown on multi-TV monitors. Some interesting stuff but we felt overwhelmed and exhausted after a few hours...

Unveiled: New Art from the Middle East to Millbank, Saatchi Gallery (Jan - May 2009)
Unfortunately, I didn't manage to see all of the show but I did see Kader Attia's ghost (a room full of Muslim women at prayer, all made of aluminium foil), which was remarkable and a bit daunting. A great opportunity to see contemporary art from the Middle East, with many thought-provoking work, this was a breath of fresh air...

Le Corbusier - The Art of Architecture, Barbican Art Gallery (Feb - May 2009)
Everyone knows that Le Corbusier was a famous architect but probably not many people know that he was also an artist and sculptor. I wish I had more time to linger because there was soooooo much to see. A comprehensive show with lots of architectural models, interior reconstructions, sculptures, paintings, furniture and sketches etc. He was a true ‘renaissance man’ of the 20th century. Brilliant.

Hat: an anthology by Stephen Jones, Victoria & Albert Museum (Feb - May 2009)
I just wish people nowadays would dress up more often (men and women), I think casual wear should only be worn in the weekends! And to complete the look, hats should be revived (for men too) and I mean hats not caps! I love hats and I love many of the hats on display esp. Jone's humourous English breakfast! Jones' creativity, technical skills and humour brought wonders to the show, besides his work, other milliners like Philip Treacy also had some fabulous hats on display. I would like to wear a different hat everyday if only I could afford it!!

Rodchenko & Popova: Defining Constructivism, Tate Modern (Feb - May 2009)
Without much expectation, my friend and I were pleasantly surprised by the show. We were amazed by the amount of work that the Russian duo had produced and also the variety... there were paintings, sculptures, theatre sets, textiles, graphic posters, photography and film. Some of their avant garde work look surprisingly contemporary (e.g Popova's textile & dress designs), and I just love the Russian revolutionary graphic posters and advertisements! A cool show!

Gerhard Richter Portraits, National Portrait Gallery (Feb - May 2009)
Not a big exhibition but a powerful and memorable one. Richter uses personal and random photographs from newspaper/magazines and transforms them into paintings. It probably doesn't sound amazing on paper, but in reality, I was blown away by the artist's technical skill and messages behind the work. Thought-provoking.

Shah ‘Abbas – The Remaking of Iran, British Museum (Feb – June 2009)
In my view, this was much better than The Babylon exhibition. With Iran continuously being on the headline news in the past few months, the timing of this exhibition was spot on! Well-curated and laid out, it showcased not only Iranian treasures but also collections from all over the world (particularly Chinese porcelain). My favourite was the exquisite calligraphy work, but the star of the show was the powerful and ruthless Muslim ruler himself. Surprisingly, not many portraits of the ruler existed, but luckily his collection did. A truly remarkable collection and exhibition.

Kuniyoshi, Royal Academy of Arts (March – June 2009)
I am usually not a Royal Academy fan, I have been disappointed with many of their shows and curating style in the past. But surprisingly, this year, I actually enjoyed 2 of their shows, one was Byzantium 330-1453 and the other was Kuniyoshi. Although I have no interest in the samurai and shogun world, I was fascinated by the imaginative, bold and graphical prints on display. His work remind me of manga comics, it's hard to believe that they were produced over 150 years ago! A wonderful exhibition that gave us a glimpse of 19th century Japan, ruled by warlords and shoguns.

Madness & Modernity: Mental illness and the visual arts in Vienna 1990 Wellcome Collection, (April – June 2009)
I have never heard of this place until my friend (visitor from abroad) mentioned it. I guess one of the reasons why I love London is that there are endless activities/ events going on and I am forever surprised by my new/ latest discoveries. Last year, I went to an exhibition near Richmond showcasing art work produced by mentally-disordered artists. This, on the other hand, explored a bit deeper into the subject and we even got to see the institute and its patients with their deformed bodies ( a bit disturbing). Interesting subject but not very well curated and a bit disjointed.

Bobby Baker’s Diary Drawings: Mental illness and me, 1997-2008, Wellcome Collection (March – August 2009)
Bobby is not a bloke but a female performance artist who suffers from bipolar mental disorder and later cancer. The show was about her emotional journey in the past 11 years, documented as paintings in a diary style. As viewers, we learned about the suffering and pain that the painter had to go through on a daily basis. Very moving and emotionally engaging.

Baroque 1620-1800: Style in the Age of Magnificence, Victoria & Albert Museum ( April - July 2009)
This show was all about glitz and opulence as one would expect from the Baroque period. There were a lot of objects on display, and mostly from Europe. My eyes were restless after examining rooms full of beautifully crafted decorative objects. Besides paintings, sculptures and decorative objects, the show also covered architecture, gardens, theatre and music. Nothing particularly stood out, but it was consistent throughout and it brought us back to a period when 'excess' was fashionable.

Gay Icon (July - Oct 2009)/ Francis Alys Fabiola (til Sept 2009), National Portrait Gallery
I was quite disappointed with the Gay Icon exhibition, not sure what I was expecting, but I found the show flat and mediocre. There are some interesting and unlikely icons on display, but the narratives lack depth and the chosen photographs are plain and nothing extraordinary. Although it emphasizes that the icons are not all gay, but many have picked 'inspiring and brave' gays/ lesbians who came out during difficult circumstances. It all becomes a bit repetitive... I am not doubting the icons themselves but the curating style just doesn't evoke my emotions and senses. Given the subject matter, I think they could have done made it more engaging instead of a straight-forward and 2 dimensional show. Just as I was about to leave the gallery disappointed, I managed to stumble into a superb exhibition nearby. Francis Alys' Fabiola is eye-catching, original and enduring. Only 2 rooms, but completely filled with 'almost' identical portraits and souvenirs of just one woman, the Christian saint, Fabiola. Alys' spent years collecting these portraits from around the world and the result is compelling. From afar, the portraits all look identical, but when you look closer, they actually all differ... each artist would inject his/ her interpretation and style creating an unique portrait. There are no labels/ descriptions on the walls, but the portraits speak for themselves. They stimulate viewers' imagination and curiosity in the simplest and direct manner. A small but exceptional exhibition.

Walking in my mind, Hayward Gallery (June - Sept 2009)
An unusual exhibition that explores the mental processes of 10 contemporary artists' minds. I was constantly surprised as I walked around the gallery, partly because I did not know what to expect. The pleasant surprises include: Yayoi Kusama's polka dots, which originated from her mental illnesses since she was a child; Chiharu Shiota's dream, featuring woven webs made out of wool; Thomas Hirschhorn's cave made of packing tape and cardboard boxes; and the simple but cute little hunt/ room by the well-known Japanese illustrator, Yoshimoto Nara. Imaginative and enjoyable show.




NEW YORK

Frank Lloyd Wright: From Within Outward, Solomon R Guggenheim Museum (May - Aug 2009)
An exhibition not to be missed! The Guggenheim celebrates its 50th year anniversary with this retrospective of Frank Lloyd Wright, who unfortunately never saw his finished masterpiece. Surprisingly, despite his celebrated status, many of his projects were never realized or simply demolished. Looking at his models and sketches now, you realize that he was way ahead of his time. The show covers 64 of his projects and one of the interesting part is his urban planning, Wright’s personal Utopia. For someone who hated cities, esp. New York, it’s ironic that his most famous work is situated in the middle of Manhattan. After visiting this and Le Corbusier’s exhibition 2 months earlier, I can fully appreciate these 2 masters’ visions, philosophy and the timeless architecture that they left behind.

Fashioning Felt, Cooper-hewitt National Design Museum (March - Sept 2009)
An interesting exhibition examining the use of felt in the design world today. Apart from fashion, there are home furnishings, lighting and furniture created by talented designers from allover the world. Cool and inspiring.

Design for a Living World, Cooper-hewitt National Design Museum (May 2009 – Jan 2010)
With the world’s natural resources rapidly vanishing, what can we do to help and bring more awareness? The Nature Conservancy commissioned ten well-known designers to source sustainably grown and harvested materials from different parts of the world to create new designs. The design processes and results are documented and presented at this exhibition. My favourite is Ezri Tarazi’s bamboo furniture, it’s creative, fun and functional. A sincere and interesting exhibition that deals with the most ‘current’ issue, it reminds us to stop taking everything for granted before it’s too late.

New at the Morgan: Acquisitions Since 2004 (April - Oct 2009) / Creating the Modern Stage: Designs for Theater and Opera (May - Aug 2009), The Morgan Library & Museum
It’s shameful that I used to live and work within a few blocks from the Morgan Library but I never stepped foot into it! I used to walk past it frequently and thought that I would visit it one day… well, years after I moved out of NYC, I finally made it and am glad I did. The library was extended a few years ago and the new exhibition area is modern, spacious and bright. The original part of the library is charming and very European, it’s hard to believe you are in the middle of Manhattan and not a small museum in England. The new acquisitions on display include precious hand-written letters by Van Gogh to Gauguin and Oscar Wilde to Bernulf Clegg; Beethoven’s hand-written manuscript and drawings by Egon Schiele and Rembrandt etc. A small room but filled with utterly priceless pieces. Creating the Modern Stage: Designs for Theater and Opera is a fascinating small exhibition on the development of theatre and opera designs in the 20th century. There are original sketches, paintings and photographs showing how art movements influenced the theatre and opera world in Europe, Russia and America. If you happen to be in the area, it’s worth popping in to escape the buzz outside and enjoy a show that brings you back in time.

Sol LeWitt - Drawing Series, DIA: Beacon, Riggio Galleries (Sept 2006 - Sept 2009)
What an amazing space, a total of 300,000 square feet of it! The Dia museum occupies a former 1920s printing factory in Beacon on the banks of the Hudson river (beautiful surroundings). The museum showcases many famous artists’ (from 1960s) large-scale painting, sculptures and installations including Andy Warhol, Richard Serra, Louise Bourgeois and Bruce Nauman etc. Though some of the art work may not be my cup of tea but they seem to fit into the museum very well. The current exhibition is conceptual artist’s Sol LeWitt’s drawing series. The show features LeWitt’s early geometrical and line wall drawings (60s – 70s), which are precise and mind-blowing. His work is simple, just grids, lines, squares and circles hand-drawn by graphite, chalk, crayons and pencils. It is necessary to walk through the exhibition to experience the true impact, because different angles create different effects. You don’t need to understand art to appreciate the simplicity and beauty of his work. Timeless and exhilarating, see it before they wipe everything off the walls!


DIA:Beacon


BRUGGE

Charles the bold - The splendour of Burgundy, Groeninge museum (March - July 2009)
I didn't know much about Charles the Bold before, but this exhibition gave an insight into the life of this ambitious prince and the political turbulence across Europe in the 15th century. It's hard to imagine how he used to travel around with all his treasures, since he had such a large collection of art, tapestries, armour, medals and books etc. The collection was very impressive but I was more intrigued by the tragic story of the prince. Just like his idol, Alexander the Great, he was driven by power and ambition, and died relatively young on the battle ground in a very gruesome way. It seems that man's persistent pursue of power and wealth has never changed, and to me, that is the most tragic of all.


ANTWERP

Paper Fashion, MoMu (March - Aug 2009)
I am a paper fanatic, I love collecting textured paper esp. the Japanese ones. I even created a recyclable paper fashion line for my design project when I was a student. I did some research on the manufacturing side but never pursued it further. Hence this exhibition has given me some hope and ideas, perhaps my concept is feasible afterall?! To my surprise, there is a large collection on display including origami, DIY dresses (2 by Andy Warhol) and designs by famous designers such as Issey Miyake, John Galliano and Hussein Chalayan. The collection is fascinating, inspiring and technically innovative, and you don't even need to be interested in fashion to enjoy this delightful exhibition.




Theatres of the Real - Contemporary British Photography / Geert van Kesteren - Baghdad Calling/ Why Mister, Why? / Nick Hannes - Red Journey, FoMu (June - Sept 2009)
Three very different exhibitions within the same building, but they all illustrate the political and social issues, just in different parts of the world. Theatres of the Real showcases 8 contemporary British talents, some staged and some in documentary style, focusing on social issues surrounding the modern British society. I particularly like Mitra Tabrizian's city bank workers series and Tom Hunter's Living in Hell and Other Stories series. Baghdad calling's images are raw, powerful and troublesome, it discloses the tragic reality of the Iraqi war and its aftermath. Some of the images are hard to digest because they are so disturbing. The fact that they are all real and not staged just makes my stomach turn. Belgian photographer, Nick Hannes's Red journey documents the transitions of the former Soviet states, colourful and at times humourous, it reveals the effect of capitalism on these ex-communist states in a subtle and non-judgmental manner.


To be continued...

Friday 24 July 2009

The ever-evolving... Amsterdam

COOL, LAID-BACK, SLEAZY, CALM, NEW & OLD, ARTISTIC, LIBERAL, COMPACT




A very FLAT city

Amsterdam is a special city. I have been there a numerous times at different stages of my life and each time it would leave a different impression on me. When I was kid, I visited the city for the 1st time with my family during the winter, and my impression of the city was grey, cold and a bit depressing. Then in my teenage years, I experienced both the cultural and seedy side of the city on a weekend school trip. We traveled for 12+ hours via coaches and ferry, did all the sightseeing and museums visits during the day, then drank and 'smoked' continuously til dawn (no idea where we got the energy from)! Visiting the red-light district was eye-opening for me at the time, but I also found it rather seedy and filthy. Since then, almost every trip to Amsterdam involved drinking heavily, smoking in coffee houses and late night Febos (with different companions) until a few years ago.

Since my good friend moved to Amsterdam, I have been enjoying a rather different Amsterdam. No booze, no coffee shops... just visiting small art/ photography galleries, design shops and spending time in cafes rather than coffee shops. Suddenly, the old image of Amsterdam seems so far away, sure the seedy part still exists but it is no longer on my itinerary. With each visit, I am discovering something new and interesting, and I love the contrast between the old and new architecture. Unlike other major international cities, Amsterdam feels more like a town/ village, which probably explains why cycling and walking are the best ways to enjoy the city. Strolling along the canals is thoroughly enjoyable, provided you don't get run over by the cyclists of course.

Best time to visit: summer, late spring

My alternative sightseeing recommendations: Besides the major sights and museums, buy a copy of Timeout and check out the smaller galleries for interesting temporary photography and design exhibitions.

Take the tram and visit the newly developed docklands... there are some interesting shops and restaurants including the spacious Grand Café / Restaurant de Kompaszaal housed in a former passenger terminal.

Stadsarchief/ Amsterdam City Archive is the world's largest city archives and holds hundreds of historical documents, photos, books and prints related to Amsterdam. The museum is free and often organises temporary photography exhibitions. The building was built in the 1920s by architect, De Bazel, and it is very well preserved inside and out. Definitely worth a visit!

Another gem of the city is the wonderful Art deco/ gothic style Tuschinski Theatre. Built in 1921 by H.L. DeJong, this theatre was renovated a few years ago and is still being used! Absolutely amazing!






The lovely Hortus Botanical garden (since 1638!) is not very big but has many exotic plants, greenhouses and even a butterfly house. The cafe also serves some delicious pastries.




Shopping: Amsterdam is a great place if you are into antique and retro 50s/ 60s furniture. There are many interesting modern and antique furniture shops, as well as cool design shops/ galleries (many located around 9 streets district). My favourites are Droog Design and Frozen Fountain. The latter features many of the well-known Dutch designers' work, and a lot of their designs are surprisingly affordable!


Droog design shop

Hema is like a crossover between Woolworth and Muji, selling a range of goods including household products, clothing and food etc. I love their stationary, esp. their cards and wrapping paper, so fun and colourful!

Restaurants

Amsterdam is not a exactly a gourmet paradise, so forget Michelin starred restaurants, go for simple fares and you can't go too wrong (usually)! I have yet to experience an outstanding meal in Amsterdam (Supper Club came close though), there are some decent restaurants around but it's probably best to do a bit of research beforehand. There are many stylish places that have opened recently, but are they just style over substance? I guess I will need to try some out next time...

If you haven't been yet, then go to the original Supper club which opened in 1991. Yes, it's trendy and pretentious etc, but don't take it too seriously, just go there for the experience and cool decor. If you want a Supper club experience, then you might as well go to the original one! The decor of the bar/ club below is quite different, but probably a bit too packed & claustrophobic when it's busy.

Kushi Tei of Tokyo: located next to the Okura Hotel, this small yakitori Japanese place is much cheaper than the restaurant next door but serves very good yakitoris. It's unpretentious and efficient, and away from the touristy area.

Burger Meester
This cool and airy place serves different types of burgers and only uses organic meat. Go for the 3 mini-burgers of your choice and fresh juices. The burgers tasted really good, the meat was juicy and went well with the grilled vegetables. The only downside is the lack of French fries on the menu, it just doesn't feel right not to have fries with burgers!

Oriental City: Probably the best/ most authentic place for dim sum in town, not particularly great if you compare it with the dim sum places in London or Hong Kong, but not bad if you happen to crave for dim sum when you are in Amsterdam.

Kantjil & de Tijger
There are many Indonesian places in town and this one is particularly popular, probably because of its location. I am not a fan of Indonesian cuisine, so I can't say that I love their cooking. But this place is reasonably priced, serves huge portions and atmosphere is lively (and extremely busy), so it's not bad if you want to sample some decent Indonesian food without spending too much.

Wolvenstraat 23
A trendy and relaxing bar/ lounge/ restaurant located in the busy 9 streets district. Often showcases local talents (art or photography work on their walls), this place is friendly and not pretentious at all. Go for drinks or sample Asian dishes from their menu, the food is actually not bad.

For something fast:

Try one of the street vendors selling herrings, they are a bit like eating sashimi!

If you are craving for greasy late-night munchies after all the boozing, then Febo is probably your best bet. Fast food served in an 'automatiek' vending machines, which can be found in many parts of the city. Best item: Krokets!



An Art Nouveau building


Funky shop


Interesting shop display


street art


Rice table

Sunday 19 July 2009

Macau revisited

FUSION (EAST MEETS WEST), COLOURFUL, LAID-BACK, HISTORICAL, CHARMING, UNIQUE

Unlike Hong Kong, the Macau government has done a lot to preserve the history & heritage of Macau. When Hong Kong people think of Macau, only a few things come into their minds: Portuguese food/tarts, casinos and maybe the ruins of St Paul. In fact, being a Unesco World heritage site, there is no shortage of sights and historical buildings, and they even have an excellent Macau museum (Hong Kong should be ashamed of themselves)! My recent trip brought me to many fascinating sites that I have never visited before... I hope that the government will continue its effort to preserve Macau's uniqueness and NOT let it become a place dominated by 5-star hotels, malls and casinos.

The Macau heritage net contains a lot of info & routes: http://www.macauheritage.net


Guia Fortress' lighthouse (19th century) and chapel (17th century)




Senado Square


A-Ma Temple


Cathedral (1622)








Lou Kau Mansion (1889)




Moorish Barracks (1874)


Rua e Beco da Felicidade





Torre Prestamista, Rua de Camilo Pessanha (1916-7)


Ruins of St. Paul’s (cathedral built from 1582-1602, destroyed by fire in 1835)


Mong Ha Fortress (1849)


Pousada de Mong Ha (opened since 1995)


Typhoon signals



Portuguese tiles


Traditional biscuits store


Restaurants and cafes

Café Ou mun - 12 Travessa de São Domingos
Local's favourite cafe serving good coffee and Portugese pastries.

IFT Educational Restaurant, inside Pousada de Mong Ha -
A reasonably-priced restaurant run by students attending the Institute for Tourism Studies next door. Service can be a bit slow and unprofessional (as expected) but the Macanese food is pretty decent. Probably not a destination restaurant but not a bad choice if you are staying at the Pousada or visiting the fortress.

Fernando's - 9 Hac Sa Beach, Coloane Island
Everyone who has been to Macau seems to have visited Fernando's at least once! It's cheap, cheerful and always busy!

A Lorcha - 289 Rua do Almirante Sergio
Popular small restaurant serving good typical Portugese and Macanese dishes.

Barra Nova - 287 Rua do Almirante Sergio
Next to A Lorcha is this 2-level restaurant serving similar Portugese/ Macanese food, esp. famous for its Pato Cabidela Duck Cooked in Its Own Blood.

Clube Militar de Macau - 975, Avenida da Praia Grande
Located inside the Military club near the Lisboa Casino hotel, this airy restaurant is quite formal but not intimidating. The food is classic Portuguese/ Macanese, not cheap but the colonial ambience is the real highlight of the experience.