Art, design & photography exhibitions (Oct 08- July 09)

Ever since I was a teenager, I have been going to art, design and photography exhibitions regularly. I am lucky because I have always lived in cities where arts and culture play important roles in their societies. The only exception is Hong Kong, where art and other culture activities are not appreciated by the masses. It's a real shame because these events can bring some much joy, knowledge and inspiration to our lives.

In the past year, I have visited many museums and exhibitions in different cities as well as my hometown, London. Some were excellent, and some weren't. I am not an art critic, but as a viewer, I expect the work (whatever form it is) to evoke my senses (i.e. visually) and emotions, whether it is sadness, anger, joy or disgust. Not every work that stirs up emotions can be regarded as good but at least it is communicating to the viewers. Everyone has his/ her own preferences, so like food and music, art is completely personal and bias. I suppose this is what makes art so interesting and controversial. Here are my personal thoughts and brief accounts of the shows that I visited in the past 9 months:

TOKYO

Tadao Ando architecture – Challenges – Faithful to the basis, Gallery Ma ( Oct - Dec 2008)
When we arrived at the gallery on a Friday afternoon, we were surprised to see the place completely packed, little did we know that Ando himself was about to give a short speech THERE! I probably would have been more thrilled if I could understand Japanese... nonetheless, it was still a 'celebrity' sighting for us! The free retrospective had models, photographs, sketches and even a life recreation of the row house in Sumiyoshi, Osaka, built back in 1976. For someone who has never had official training in architecture, Ando's achievement in the architectural world is simply astonishing. A comprehensive and organised exhibition with a bookshop downstairs that sells a wide range of architecture and design books.

"Second Nature" directed by：Tokujin Yoshioka, 21_21 design sight (Oct 2008 - Jan 2009)
Thought-provoking theme and concept with lots of aesthetically pleasing displays and ice sculptures, but I didn't feel emotionally engaged with the work. Quite disappointing esp. after seeing the outstanding "XXIst Century Man" by Issey Miyaki exhibition here earlier in the summer.




HONG KONG

DesignEx08, Innocentre (Dec 10-28, 2008)
To coincide with the Business of Design week in Hong Kong, this exhibition was organised in collaboration with Amsterdam's Stedilijk Museum, Fashion Institute and The Hague's Academy of Art. It showcased Dutch talents in various disciplines such as architecture, graphics and fashion. One of the interesting part was the cross-cultural graphic posters designed by Hong Kong and Dutch designers. It's a shame that these major design exhibitions only happen in Hong Kong once or twice a year! Hong Kong design students need to be exposed to more exhibitions like this to widen their horizons.


PARIS

Ron Arad: No Discipline, Centre Pompidou (Nov 2008 - March 2009)
One of the most famous industrial designers/ architects of our times... Ron's work is dramatic, fun, colourful, uplifting and innovative (in terms of form, material and production). This exhibition was cool, contemporary and definitely worth visiting even if you are not a designer/ architect. The next stop will be in Moma, New York from August til October.

Le Futurisme à Paris, Centre Pompidou (Oct 2008 - Jan 2009)
Quite a big exhibition on Futurism, the first avant-garde movement of the 20th century in Paris. Featuring many big names like Picasso and Duchamp as well as some less- known artists from Russia, Italy and England. A well-curated show but a bit gloomy.

Wa: L’Harmonie au Quotidien – design Japonais d’aujourd’hui/ WA: The Spirit of Harmony in Contemporary Japanese Design , Maison de la culture du Japon ( Oct 2008 – Jan 2009)
I love Japanese designs and so was thrilled when I found out about this exhibition during my short stay in Paris. The exhibition space was not big but it showcased tableware, kitchenware, home electronics, toys, stationery, lighting and furniture etc. The objects were selected to convey the essence of contemporary Japanese designs. Some were technologically innovative, some humourous, but mostly user-friendly. Overall, an impressive exhibition confirming the status and influences of Japanese designs in our world today.

A mestizo planet to mix or not to mix, Musee du quai Branly (March 2008- July 2009)
After visiting the Japanese Foundation by the Seine, I walked past this 3 year-old museum near the Eiffel Tower. I was pleasantly-surprised by exterior of the modern architecture (designed by Jean Nouvel), its landscape garden and the subject matter of the museum (the arts of Africa, Oceania, Asia, and the Americas). The collection is vast and impressive, but I was completely disoriented at the beginning, it took me quite a while to get used to interwoven collection in each section. I found the layout messy, disjointed and lighting too dim. The small anthropology exhibition upstairs which explored the mixing of cultures, races, communications and lifestyles seemed fascinating on paper, but lacked depth and focus in my opinion. However, I still think the museum is worth visiting (just for the architecture alone), but there is definitely room for improvement.




LONDON

Place/No Place: Anish Kapoor in Architecture, RIBA (Oct 15 - Nov 8, 2008)
A small but immensely engaging and thought-provoking exhibition. I am glad that I managed to see it just before it ended. The detailed miniature architectural/ sculptural models (around 30 pf them) were beautifully crafted and presented. Although the models were small but you could see the concept as well as the Freudism and Buddhism influences on his work. I am really looking forward to his forthcoming major exhibition at the Royal Academy!

Cold War Modern: Design 1945 – 1970, Victoria & Albert Museum (Sept 2008 – Jan 2009)
A huge exhibition with hundreds of objects including fashion, posters, furniture, architecture, films and product designs etc. My friend found the exhibition rather depressing but I thought it was quite captivating. There was a lot of information to digest but it was interesting to see how politics affected the architectural and design world during the cold war era. The film on Cuba (the hedonistic days) was particularly intriguing...

Annie Leibovitz, a photographer’s life 1990-2005, National Portrait Gallery (Oct 2008 - Feb 2009)
Being one of the most famous photographers of our generation, Annie Leibovitz's exhibition did not disappoint. There were many celebrity photos, but the best part was her personal ones on friends and family... very touching.

Babylon – Myth and Reality, British Museum
(Nov 2008 – March 2009)
Ever since I was kid, I have had this fascination with Persia esp. Baghdad, mainly because of the Sinbad cartoon! My heart sank when I watched the Americans bombing Iraq on TV, it was hard to imagine how many artifacts and archaeological sites were destroyed by them. My fear was proved right at the exhibition... so much was lost and destroyed by Saddam Hussein and the Americans, it's devastating. The highlights of this exhibition included the different interpretations/ paintings of the Tower of Babel, Hanging Gardens, 'Nebuchadnezzar', and model of the Processional Way and Ishtar Gate. However, I was slightly disappointed because I was expecting a bigger collection... I guess I will need to visit Iraq one day to fully satisfy my curiosity and fascination.

Byzantium 330-1453, Royal Academy of Arts (Oct 2008 – March 2009)
A major Royal Academy exhibition featuring the splendid art work and manuscripts from the Byzantine Empire. Usually I am not a fan of religious-themed art, but I was stunned to see the craftsmanship and techniques in many of the religious artifacts on display. Nonetheless, it was the amazing mosaic work that really captivated me... a great show that reflected the wealth, history and influences of the Byzantines.

Altermodern: Tate Triennial 2009, Tate Britain (Feb – April 2009)
A huge and ambitious show displaying work from mostly contemporary British artists. There was a lot to see but my friend and I did not appreciate all the so-called modern art pieces. The more memorable ones were: Subodh Gupta's gigantic installation 'Line of Control' (stainless kitchen utensils connected and piled on top of each other); the bamboo forest installation (not sure who the artist is), David Noonan's large cardboard cutouts and Spartacus Chetwynd's film shown on multi-TV monitors. Some interesting stuff but we felt overwhelmed and exhausted after a few hours...

Unveiled: New Art from the Middle East to Millbank, Saatchi Gallery (Jan - May 2009)
Unfortunately, I didn't manage to see all of the show but I did see Kader Attia's ghost (a room full of Muslim women at prayer, all made of aluminium foil), which was remarkable and a bit daunting. A great opportunity to see contemporary art from the Middle East, with many thought-provoking work, this was a breath of fresh air...

Le Corbusier - The Art of Architecture, Barbican Art Gallery (Feb - May 2009)
Everyone knows that Le Corbusier was a famous architect but probably not many people know that he was also an artist and sculptor. I wish I had more time to linger because there was soooooo much to see. A comprehensive show with lots of architectural models, interior reconstructions, sculptures, paintings, furniture and sketches etc. He was a true ‘renaissance man’ of the 20th century. Brilliant.

Hat: an anthology by Stephen Jones, Victoria & Albert Museum (Feb - May 2009)
I just wish people nowadays would dress up more often (men and women), I think casual wear should only be worn in the weekends! And to complete the look, hats should be revived (for men too) and I mean hats not caps! I love hats and I love many of the hats on display esp. Jone's humourous English breakfast! Jones' creativity, technical skills and humour brought wonders to the show, besides his work, other milliners like Philip Treacy also had some fabulous hats on display. I would like to wear a different hat everyday if only I could afford it!!

Rodchenko & Popova: Defining Constructivism, Tate Modern (Feb - May 2009)
Without much expectation, my friend and I were pleasantly surprised by the show. We were amazed by the amount of work that the Russian duo had produced and also the variety... there were paintings, sculptures, theatre sets, textiles, graphic posters, photography and film. Some of their avant garde work look surprisingly contemporary (e.g Popova's textile & dress designs), and I just love the Russian revolutionary graphic posters and advertisements! A cool show!

Gerhard Richter Portraits, National Portrait Gallery (Feb - May 2009)
Not a big exhibition but a powerful and memorable one. Richter uses personal and random photographs from newspaper/magazines and transforms them into paintings. It probably doesn't sound amazing on paper, but in reality, I was blown away by the artist's technical skill and messages behind the work. Thought-provoking.

Shah ‘Abbas – The Remaking of Iran, British Museum (Feb – June 2009)
In my view, this was much better than The Babylon exhibition. With Iran continuously being on the headline news in the past few months, the timing of this exhibition was spot on! Well-curated and laid out, it showcased not only Iranian treasures but also collections from all over the world (particularly Chinese porcelain). My favourite was the exquisite calligraphy work, but the star of the show was the powerful and ruthless Muslim ruler himself. Surprisingly, not many portraits of the ruler existed, but luckily his collection did. A truly remarkable collection and exhibition.

Kuniyoshi, Royal Academy of Arts (March – June 2009)
I am usually not a Royal Academy fan, I have been disappointed with many of their shows and curating style in the past. But surprisingly, this year, I actually enjoyed 2 of their shows, one was Byzantium 330-1453 and the other was Kuniyoshi. Although I have no interest in the samurai and shogun world, I was fascinated by the imaginative, bold and graphical prints on display. His work remind me of manga comics, it's hard to believe that they were produced over 150 years ago! A wonderful exhibition that gave us a glimpse of 19th century Japan, ruled by warlords and shoguns.

Madness & Modernity: Mental illness and the visual arts in Vienna 1990 Wellcome Collection, (April – June 2009)
I have never heard of this place until my friend (visitor from abroad) mentioned it. I guess one of the reasons why I love London is that there are endless activities/ events going on and I am forever surprised by my new/ latest discoveries. Last year, I went to an exhibition near Richmond showcasing art work produced by mentally-disordered artists. This, on the other hand, explored a bit deeper into the subject and we even got to see the institute and its patients with their deformed bodies ( a bit disturbing). Interesting subject but not very well curated and a bit disjointed.

Bobby Baker’s Diary Drawings: Mental illness and me, 1997-2008, Wellcome Collection (March – August 2009)
Bobby is not a bloke but a female performance artist who suffers from bipolar mental disorder and later cancer. The show was about her emotional journey in the past 11 years, documented as paintings in a diary style. As viewers, we learned about the suffering and pain that the painter had to go through on a daily basis. Very moving and emotionally engaging.

Baroque 1620-1800: Style in the Age of Magnificence, Victoria & Albert Museum ( April - July 2009)
This show was all about glitz and opulence as one would expect from the Baroque period. There were a lot of objects on display, and mostly from Europe. My eyes were restless after examining rooms full of beautifully crafted decorative objects. Besides paintings, sculptures and decorative objects, the show also covered architecture, gardens, theatre and music. Nothing particularly stood out, but it was consistent throughout and it brought us back to a period when 'excess' was fashionable.

Gay Icon (July - Oct 2009)/ Francis Alys Fabiola (til Sept 2009), National Portrait Gallery
I was quite disappointed with the Gay Icon exhibition, not sure what I was expecting, but I found the show flat and mediocre. There are some interesting and unlikely icons on display, but the narratives lack depth and the chosen photographs are plain and nothing extraordinary. Although it emphasizes that the icons are not all gay, but many have picked 'inspiring and brave' gays/ lesbians who came out during difficult circumstances. It all becomes a bit repetitive... I am not doubting the icons themselves but the curating style just doesn't evoke my emotions and senses. Given the subject matter, I think they could have done made it more engaging instead of a straight-forward and 2 dimensional show. Just as I was about to leave the gallery disappointed, I managed to stumble into a superb exhibition nearby. Francis Alys' Fabiola is eye-catching, original and enduring. Only 2 rooms, but completely filled with 'almost' identical portraits and souvenirs of just one woman, the Christian saint, Fabiola. Alys' spent years collecting these portraits from around the world and the result is compelling. From afar, the portraits all look identical, but when you look closer, they actually all differ... each artist would inject his/ her interpretation and style creating an unique portrait. There are no labels/ descriptions on the walls, but the portraits speak for themselves. They stimulate viewers' imagination and curiosity in the simplest and direct manner. A small but exceptional exhibition.

Walking in my mind, Hayward Gallery (June - Sept 2009)
An unusual exhibition that explores the mental processes of 10 contemporary artists' minds. I was constantly surprised as I walked around the gallery, partly because I did not know what to expect. The pleasant surprises include: Yayoi Kusama's polka dots, which originated from her mental illnesses since she was a child; Chiharu Shiota's dream, featuring woven webs made out of wool; Thomas Hirschhorn's cave made of packing tape and cardboard boxes; and the simple but cute little hunt/ room by the well-known Japanese illustrator, Yoshimoto Nara. Imaginative and enjoyable show.




NEW YORK

Frank Lloyd Wright: From Within Outward, Solomon R Guggenheim Museum (May - Aug 2009)
An exhibition not to be missed! The Guggenheim celebrates its 50th year anniversary with this retrospective of Frank Lloyd Wright, who unfortunately never saw his finished masterpiece. Surprisingly, despite his celebrated status, many of his projects were never realized or simply demolished. Looking at his models and sketches now, you realize that he was way ahead of his time. The show covers 64 of his projects and one of the interesting part is his urban planning, Wright’s personal Utopia. For someone who hated cities, esp. New York, it’s ironic that his most famous work is situated in the middle of Manhattan. After visiting this and Le Corbusier’s exhibition 2 months earlier, I can fully appreciate these 2 masters’ visions, philosophy and the timeless architecture that they left behind.

Fashioning Felt, Cooper-hewitt National Design Museum (March - Sept 2009)
An interesting exhibition examining the use of felt in the design world today. Apart from fashion, there are home furnishings, lighting and furniture created by talented designers from allover the world. Cool and inspiring.

Design for a Living World, Cooper-hewitt National Design Museum (May 2009 – Jan 2010)
With the world’s natural resources rapidly vanishing, what can we do to help and bring more awareness? The Nature Conservancy commissioned ten well-known designers to source sustainably grown and harvested materials from different parts of the world to create new designs. The design processes and results are documented and presented at this exhibition. My favourite is Ezri Tarazi’s bamboo furniture, it’s creative, fun and functional. A sincere and interesting exhibition that deals with the most ‘current’ issue, it reminds us to stop taking everything for granted before it’s too late.

New at the Morgan: Acquisitions Since 2004 (April - Oct 2009) / Creating the Modern Stage: Designs for Theater and Opera (May - Aug 2009), The Morgan Library & Museum
It’s shameful that I used to live and work within a few blocks from the Morgan Library but I never stepped foot into it! I used to walk past it frequently and thought that I would visit it one day… well, years after I moved out of NYC, I finally made it and am glad I did. The library was extended a few years ago and the new exhibition area is modern, spacious and bright. The original part of the library is charming and very European, it’s hard to believe you are in the middle of Manhattan and not a small museum in England. The new acquisitions on display include precious hand-written letters by Van Gogh to Gauguin and Oscar Wilde to Bernulf Clegg; Beethoven’s hand-written manuscript and drawings by Egon Schiele and Rembrandt etc. A small room but filled with utterly priceless pieces. Creating the Modern Stage: Designs for Theater and Opera is a fascinating small exhibition on the development of theatre and opera designs in the 20th century. There are original sketches, paintings and photographs showing how art movements influenced the theatre and opera world in Europe, Russia and America. If you happen to be in the area, it’s worth popping in to escape the buzz outside and enjoy a show that brings you back in time.

Sol LeWitt - Drawing Series, DIA: Beacon, Riggio Galleries (Sept 2006 - Sept 2009)
What an amazing space, a total of 300,000 square feet of it! The Dia museum occupies a former 1920s printing factory in Beacon on the banks of the Hudson river (beautiful surroundings). The museum showcases many famous artists’ (from 1960s) large-scale painting, sculptures and installations including Andy Warhol, Richard Serra, Louise Bourgeois and Bruce Nauman etc. Though some of the art work may not be my cup of tea but they seem to fit into the museum very well. The current exhibition is conceptual artist’s Sol LeWitt’s drawing series. The show features LeWitt’s early geometrical and line wall drawings (60s – 70s), which are precise and mind-blowing. His work is simple, just grids, lines, squares and circles hand-drawn by graphite, chalk, crayons and pencils. It is necessary to walk through the exhibition to experience the true impact, because different angles create different effects. You don’t need to understand art to appreciate the simplicity and beauty of his work. Timeless and exhilarating, see it before they wipe everything off the walls!


DIA:Beacon


BRUGGE

Charles the bold - The splendour of Burgundy, Groeninge museum (March - July 2009)
I didn't know much about Charles the Bold before, but this exhibition gave an insight into the life of this ambitious prince and the political turbulence across Europe in the 15th century. It's hard to imagine how he used to travel around with all his treasures, since he had such a large collection of art, tapestries, armour, medals and books etc. The collection was very impressive but I was more intrigued by the tragic story of the prince. Just like his idol, Alexander the Great, he was driven by power and ambition, and died relatively young on the battle ground in a very gruesome way. It seems that man's persistent pursue of power and wealth has never changed, and to me, that is the most tragic of all.


ANTWERP

Paper Fashion, MoMu (March - Aug 2009)
I am a paper fanatic, I love collecting textured paper esp. the Japanese ones. I even created a recyclable paper fashion line for my design project when I was a student. I did some research on the manufacturing side but never pursued it further. Hence this exhibition has given me some hope and ideas, perhaps my concept is feasible afterall?! To my surprise, there is a large collection on display including origami, DIY dresses (2 by Andy Warhol) and designs by famous designers such as Issey Miyake, John Galliano and Hussein Chalayan. The collection is fascinating, inspiring and technically innovative, and you don't even need to be interested in fashion to enjoy this delightful exhibition.




Theatres of the Real - Contemporary British Photography / Geert van Kesteren - Baghdad Calling/ Why Mister, Why? / Nick Hannes - Red Journey, FoMu (June - Sept 2009)
Three very different exhibitions within the same building, but they all illustrate the political and social issues, just in different parts of the world. Theatres of the Real showcases 8 contemporary British talents, some staged and some in documentary style, focusing on social issues surrounding the modern British society. I particularly like Mitra Tabrizian's city bank workers series and Tom Hunter's Living in Hell and Other Stories series. Baghdad calling's images are raw, powerful and troublesome, it discloses the tragic reality of the Iraqi war and its aftermath. Some of the images are hard to digest because they are so disturbing. The fact that they are all real and not staged just makes my stomach turn. Belgian photographer, Nick Hannes's Red journey documents the transitions of the former Soviet states, colourful and at times humourous, it reveals the effect of capitalism on these ex-communist states in a subtle and non-judgmental manner.


To be continued...

The ever-evolving... Amsterdam

COOL, LAID-BACK, SLEAZY, CALM, NEW & OLD, ARTISTIC, LIBERAL, COMPACT




A very FLAT city

Amsterdam is a special city. I have been there a numerous times at different stages of my life and each time it would leave a different impression on me. When I was kid, I visited the city for the 1st time with my family during the winter, and my impression of the city was grey, cold and a bit depressing. Then in my teenage years, I experienced both the cultural and seedy side of the city on a weekend school trip. We traveled for 12+ hours via coaches and ferry, did all the sightseeing and museums visits during the day, then drank and 'smoked' continuously til dawn (no idea where we got the energy from)! Visiting the red-light district was eye-opening for me at the time, but I also found it rather seedy and filthy. Since then, almost every trip to Amsterdam involved drinking heavily, smoking in coffee houses and late night Febos (with different companions) until a few years ago.

Since my good friend moved to Amsterdam, I have been enjoying a rather different Amsterdam. No booze, no coffee shops... just visiting small art/ photography galleries, design shops and spending time in cafes rather than coffee shops. Suddenly, the old image of Amsterdam seems so far away, sure the seedy part still exists but it is no longer on my itinerary. With each visit, I am discovering something new and interesting, and I love the contrast between the old and new architecture. Unlike other major international cities, Amsterdam feels more like a town/ village, which probably explains why cycling and walking are the best ways to enjoy the city. Strolling along the canals is thoroughly enjoyable, provided you don't get run over by the cyclists of course.

Best time to visit: summer, late spring

My alternative sightseeing recommendations: Besides the major sights and museums, buy a copy of Timeout and check out the smaller galleries for interesting temporary photography and design exhibitions.

Take the tram and visit the newly developed docklands... there are some interesting shops and restaurants including the spacious Grand Café / Restaurant de Kompaszaal housed in a former passenger terminal.

Stadsarchief/ Amsterdam City Archive is the world's largest city archives and holds hundreds of historical documents, photos, books and prints related to Amsterdam. The museum is free and often organises temporary photography exhibitions. The building was built in the 1920s by architect, De Bazel, and it is very well preserved inside and out. Definitely worth a visit!

Another gem of the city is the wonderful Art deco/ gothic style Tuschinski Theatre. Built in 1921 by H.L. DeJong, this theatre was renovated a few years ago and is still being used! Absolutely amazing!






The lovely Hortus Botanical garden (since 1638!) is not very big but has many exotic plants, greenhouses and even a butterfly house. The cafe also serves some delicious pastries.




Shopping: Amsterdam is a great place if you are into antique and retro 50s/ 60s furniture. There are many interesting modern and antique furniture shops, as well as cool design shops/ galleries (many located around 9 streets district). My favourites are Droog Design and Frozen Fountain. The latter features many of the well-known Dutch designers' work, and a lot of their designs are surprisingly affordable!


Droog design shop

Hema is like a crossover between Woolworth and Muji, selling a range of goods including household products, clothing and food etc. I love their stationary, esp. their cards and wrapping paper, so fun and colourful!

Restaurants

Amsterdam is not a exactly a gourmet paradise, so forget Michelin starred restaurants, go for simple fares and you can't go too wrong (usually)! I have yet to experience an outstanding meal in Amsterdam (Supper Club came close though), there are some decent restaurants around but it's probably best to do a bit of research beforehand. There are many stylish places that have opened recently, but are they just style over substance? I guess I will need to try some out next time...

If you haven't been yet, then go to the original Supper club which opened in 1991. Yes, it's trendy and pretentious etc, but don't take it too seriously, just go there for the experience and cool decor. If you want a Supper club experience, then you might as well go to the original one! The decor of the bar/ club below is quite different, but probably a bit too packed & claustrophobic when it's busy.

Kushi Tei of Tokyo: located next to the Okura Hotel, this small yakitori Japanese place is much cheaper than the restaurant next door but serves very good yakitoris. It's unpretentious and efficient, and away from the touristy area.

Burger Meester
This cool and airy place serves different types of burgers and only uses organic meat. Go for the 3 mini-burgers of your choice and fresh juices. The burgers tasted really good, the meat was juicy and went well with the grilled vegetables. The only downside is the lack of French fries on the menu, it just doesn't feel right not to have fries with burgers!

Oriental City: Probably the best/ most authentic place for dim sum in town, not particularly great if you compare it with the dim sum places in London or Hong Kong, but not bad if you happen to crave for dim sum when you are in Amsterdam.

Kantjil & de Tijger
There are many Indonesian places in town and this one is particularly popular, probably because of its location. I am not a fan of Indonesian cuisine, so I can't say that I love their cooking. But this place is reasonably priced, serves huge portions and atmosphere is lively (and extremely busy), so it's not bad if you want to sample some decent Indonesian food without spending too much.

Wolvenstraat 23
A trendy and relaxing bar/ lounge/ restaurant located in the busy 9 streets district. Often showcases local talents (art or photography work on their walls), this place is friendly and not pretentious at all. Go for drinks or sample Asian dishes from their menu, the food is actually not bad.

For something fast:

Try one of the street vendors selling herrings, they are a bit like eating sashimi!

If you are craving for greasy late-night munchies after all the boozing, then Febo is probably your best bet. Fast food served in an 'automatiek' vending machines, which can be found in many parts of the city. Best item: Krokets!



An Art Nouveau building


Funky shop


Interesting shop display


street art


Rice table

Macau revisited

FUSION (EAST MEETS WEST), COLOURFUL, LAID-BACK, HISTORICAL, CHARMING, UNIQUE

Unlike Hong Kong, the Macau government has done a lot to preserve the history & heritage of Macau. When Hong Kong people think of Macau, only a few things come into their minds: Portuguese food/tarts, casinos and maybe the ruins of St Paul. In fact, being a Unesco World heritage site, there is no shortage of sights and historical buildings, and they even have an excellent Macau museum (Hong Kong should be ashamed of themselves)! My recent trip brought me to many fascinating sites that I have never visited before... I hope that the government will continue its effort to preserve Macau's uniqueness and NOT let it become a place dominated by 5-star hotels, malls and casinos.

The Macau heritage net contains a lot of info & routes: http://www.macauheritage.net


Guia Fortress' lighthouse (19th century) and chapel (17th century)




Senado Square


A-Ma Temple


Cathedral (1622)








Lou Kau Mansion (1889)




Moorish Barracks (1874)


Rua e Beco da Felicidade





Torre Prestamista, Rua de Camilo Pessanha (1916-7)


Ruins of St. Paul’s (cathedral built from 1582-1602, destroyed by fire in 1835)


Mong Ha Fortress (1849)


Pousada de Mong Ha (opened since 1995)


Typhoon signals



Portuguese tiles


Traditional biscuits store


Restaurants and cafes

Café Ou mun - 12 Travessa de São Domingos
Local's favourite cafe serving good coffee and Portugese pastries.

IFT Educational Restaurant, inside Pousada de Mong Ha -
A reasonably-priced restaurant run by students attending the Institute for Tourism Studies next door. Service can be a bit slow and unprofessional (as expected) but the Macanese food is pretty decent. Probably not a destination restaurant but not a bad choice if you are staying at the Pousada or visiting the fortress.

Fernando's - 9 Hac Sa Beach, Coloane Island
Everyone who has been to Macau seems to have visited Fernando's at least once! It's cheap, cheerful and always busy!

A Lorcha - 289 Rua do Almirante Sergio
Popular small restaurant serving good typical Portugese and Macanese dishes.

Barra Nova - 287 Rua do Almirante Sergio
Next to A Lorcha is this 2-level restaurant serving similar Portugese/ Macanese food, esp. famous for its Pato Cabidela Duck Cooked in Its Own Blood.

Clube Militar de Macau - 975, Avenida da Praia Grande
Located inside the Military club near the Lisboa Casino hotel, this airy restaurant is quite formal but not intimidating. The food is classic Portuguese/ Macanese, not cheap but the colonial ambience is the real highlight of the experience.

Hong Kong flavours

A famous tea house/ cafe in Yau Ma Tei

Hong Kong has many local specialties like egg tarts, pineapple buns, wonton noodles and fish balls ho fun etc, and usually they can be found in most ‘tea houses’. Forget hygiene and service, they are not places to linger, just enjoy the unique flavours of HK… These are some of the best/ most famous ones:

Tai Cheong Bakery, Central
Supposedly, this place serves the best egg tart in town, however, it’s not my favourite. Probably because I am not a fan of the short crust pastry, I find it too buttery/ lardy and smooth. I think their egg tarts are above average, but not the best in my opinion. Overhyped? Probably. It’s called the Pattern effect!

Honolulu Coffee Shop, Central, Wai Chai
My favourite place for egg tarts! Nothing beats the freshly baked egg tarts with flaky crust and hot custard! I am not an egg tart connaisseur, so I can’t say there aren’t better ones out there, but I think this place serves pretty consistent and decent tarts. I only do take-outs here, it’s much better than sitting inside…

Kam Fung Restaurant, Wai Chai
My friend took me here and made me queue with her for about 10 mins! We had the famous chicken pie, egg tart and milk tea in a very narrow and uncomfortable carriage-style seating. The chicken pie was not bad, but nothing special. The egg tart had a weird after taste… we suspected that maybe the butter/ lard was off?! Milk tea was quite smooth, but not really worth the 10-minute wait. Chaotic, uncomfortable and overhyped, I doubt I will be back.

Mak's Noodle Ltd, Central
Mak’s wonton noodle is most famous for their wontons, and their price tags (when compared to other wonton noodle places)! I am not crazy about their wontons, but I do like their shrimp dumplings, I think they are much better than their acclaimed wontons!

Mak An Kee Noodle, Central
Apparently this owner is related to the boss of Mak’s noodle ltd, but this hidden place is much more low-key. I think the wontons here are better than Mak’s and cheaper too!

Mak Mun Kee, Jordan
Another famous wonton place, but in Jordan. Good wontons and shrimp roe lo mein.

Fish Ball Kong Chai Kee, Central
Good fish balls ho fun, and I particularly like their chilli sauce!

Tsui Wah Restaurant, Central
Good place for the late-night munchies such as fish balls ho fun and other noodle dishes after drinking in Lan Kwai Fong.

New Cheung Hing Restaurant, Happy Valley
A friend of mine likes to come here for egg and ham sandwiches and instant noodles. Personally, I think my homemade instant noodles are better! I don't think their food is particularly special but I guess people come here for nostalgic/ celebrity factor rather than the food.

Law Fu Kee, Central
Good cheap place for all kinds of congee!

Ocean Empire Food Shop, Wai Chai
Cheap congee and cheung fun place, pretty standard.

Australia Dairy Co, Jordan
I never tried their famous scrambled egg sandwich, but their steamed egg dessert and thick toast were all pretty satisfying.

Yuen Kee Dessert, Sai Wan
I remember coming here as a kid… my recent visit brought back all the old memories! Luckily, the almond soup was still smooth and thick… will definitely come back again to try out other desserts!

Afternoon tea/ cafes in Hong Kong

Afternoon tea is almost like a daily ritual for my friends and I, so our quest is find the ultimate tea/ coffee haven in town. Unfortunately, we have not been very successful... I am a coffee drinker and some of my friend are tea lovers, so it's hard to find a place that satisfies all our needs. Here are some my recent experiences and Starbucks is not on the list:

Agnes B cafes - The food at the Causeway Bay branch was not good, the IFC one has a better view and is more comfortable. Coffee was fine, would probably try their cakes next time.

Antique tea room - nice small cafe with so-so service. However, it's quite a pleasant/alternative place to have coffee/ tea and cakes with friends in Central esp. if you don't want to do starbucks or upmarket hotels.

China tee club - It's been a long time since I came to this place... We were told that there would be a minimum charge for non-members, but luckily, the tea and fruit crumble I ordered passed the test, so I left the place full and satisfied.

Clipper lounge, Mandarin Hotel - what changed? Both my friends and I didn't notice much change after the renovation except for the slip in service!

Conrad lounge - The tea buffet here has less variety than Marriott, but it is also less packed and not as noisy. Not a bad place if you want to catch up with friends, but if you are looking to stuff your face within 2-3 hours, then probably Marriott is a better choice.

Cafe Corridor - Quite a small, hidden cafe opp. Time Square with only a few tables. Coffee and cake here were not too bad, but don't expect much service.

Island Shangri-la's Gourmet - Pleasant small hotel cafe with a wide range of cakes, but the coffee had a burnt aftertaste... for the price they charge, they really need to do better.

Habitu, Central - Comfortable and laid back. Decent cafe with decent food and coffee.

Harlan's - Never noticed this place until my friend booked an afternoon tea session here! Quiet and spacious, it was a good place to chat. Tea set was quite good and filling, but service was a bit sloppy.

Le Gouter Bernardaud, IFC - Yummy cakes and macarons and decent expresso but service was not so good.

Marriott Lounge - Weekend afternoon tea buffet here was a bit like sitting in a bazaar! Packed with families, foreign hotel guests, tai tais and teenagers... it was so hectic! As expected, service was inattentive and noise level was high. A wide range of food was available including dim sum (not freshly made), sushi, congee, salad, chicken wings and waffles etc. Average standard but good value for money.

Robouchon Bakery - Coffee here was strong but slightly bitter, but beware of the fresh juices here... ordering them might break your wallet! Croissants & many items from the bakery were delicious, though snotty service has put me off this place!

Cafe S. - I like the this little Japanese-style cafe next to the Sogo bookshop, it's quiet and comfortable. Less choices than UCC downstairs, but much nicer environment.

Tiffins, Grand Hyatt - Afternoon tea buffet here has always been quite consistent over the years. Not cheap but there is a variety of savoury and sweets to choose from. Their homemade ice-cream is divine!

UCC - Coffee and waffles are pretty good, but I can't stand the noisy branch inside Sogo.

Caffé Vergnano 1882, Lee Gardens - We didn't eat here but thought the coffee was good and strong, would come back again.

Zoe cafe - Wide variety of small, yummy but pricey cakes, the place is tiny and always packed!

Hong Kong restaurants 2008-9

The standards of Hong Kong restaurants seem to have slipped in the past few years. Poor and unprofessional service is a problem but so is the food quality. Not sure why meat and vegetables no longer taste fresh, is it because everything is being transported from China these days?? In the past few years, I have not been to a restaurant that blew me away. People don't seem to cook with their hearts anymore, it's so hard to find a place that serves sincere and honest food! What is going on with this 'Food Paradise?' I am not a fussy eater, but I have been let down continuously so now I would rather stick to the regular joints to avoid disappointments. It's a shame because I am usually an adventurous eater. Sadly, the restaurant scene in Hong Kong no longer excites me anymore. I spent quite a few months jetting in and out of HK in the past year, so here are some of my recent culinary experiences. Some reviews might be quite harsh, but I am angry about the slip in the overall standards esp. when I used to enjoy many many memorable meals here.

Thumbs down experiences:

Armani - High prices but food was so-so! Mixed up food and bills with neighbouring tables implied slack service as well. A let-down!

La Bouteille (FRENCH) - A friend took me to this odd place inside a Central commercial building for lunch without a reservation. We arrived before the lunch hour but only got seated after a long and serious discussion between the boss/manager and the waitress. OK, I understand that lunch hour is their busiest but we didn't need someone to come over every 2 seconds to ask if we were ready to order. Besides the rude and pushy service, everything we ordered was sloppily done, no attention was paid on the execution nor presentation. Why bother opening a restaurant when they couldn't care less about their customers? If rushing to get the food out was their main priority, then they should have opened a fast food joint rather than a French restaurant where people are supposed to take time to enjoy their meal!

Dan Ryan (AMERICAN), Festive Walk - I can't remember the last time I ate here, it must have been about 10 years ago... and maybe there is a reason why I haven't returned! Salad was too cold and everything else was soaked in some BBQ sauce. Noisy and not very clean... a terrible place!

House of Canton (CANTONESE/ DIM SUM) – A typical HK restaurant with poor and inattentive service. Some of the dim sum was ok, some we had to send back because they were either cold or too greasy. Not sure why people would queue to get a table here except for its location (Festive Walk). Pricey and not worth it.

Lippo Chiuchow restaurant - So hard to find authentic Chiu Chow food these days, and this is definitely NOT the place to come if you want to sample good Chiu Chow dishes. The manager took no notice of us because he was too busy serving our neighbouring table, some Mainland Chinese who ordered shark-fin soup and other delicacies. Food was average and the fact that they didn't even serve us the famous strong tea made me wonder about their authenticity!

Myung Ga (KOREAN) - Bad service, expensive and small portions. Again, why do people queue to get in here? Is it for the view? No idea.

Pho Tai - Is this a joke? This is supposed to be a pho specialist but they didn't even give me any herbs/ bean sprouts/ lime for my beef pho. When I asked for these condiments, the waitress told me that they ran out of everything! Then a few minutes later, she came out with a small slice of lime and some not-so-fresh looking bean sprouts! Simply unbelievable!

Robuchon's bakery - Poor and patronising service! I haven't encountered such arrogant and bad service for a long long time!! The middle-age woman behind the cashier is a rude Bxxch!

Roka (JAPANESE) - Perhaps we came too soon - just after they opened and it was really awful. They ran out of udon and made us order the yakisoba which arrived in seconds...sadly the noodles was soggy and lukewarm. (did they microwave it?) The service was beyond bad... after a few complaints to the manager, we were offered free desserts and the yakisoba taken off our bill. But it was too late already... another problem: the air-con was too cold, so our hot food turned cold very quickly. Definitely will not come back again!

Sevva (INTERNATIONAL) - The view is great and the decor tasteful but nothing else was up to scratch! Unprofessional service combined with bad, overpriced food & drinks, just how bad can you get? Joyce cafe used to have a similar menu but it was so much better!! I have heard nothing but negative reviews about this place from different friends, it makes me wonder how long this place can survive esp. in this current economic climate?!

Superstar seafood restaurant (CANTONESE/ DIM SUM) - Too many overpriced fancy dim sum, waitresses were constantly selling expensive items not on the menu. A rip-off joint!


Disappointing food:

Cova, Central - Lunch was expensive and not that great. My pasta was bland and tasteless, my friend's tiramisu basically had only mascarpone with a bit of cocoa on top. Did they forget the savoiardi?!

Nahm, Elements - Huge portions but very hit/miss, sadly, it was a 'miss' for us! The nouveau Thai cuisine just didn't work for us, though service was efficient and professional.

Viceroy - This famous Indian restaurant has been around for a long time, but the lunch buffet was not so special, not as good as Excelsior's curry lunch buffet!

Xi yan tastes (FUSION) - I have never been to the original Xi Yan, but lunch at this particular branch inside G.O.D. was disappointing. The food was quite tasteless, very different from his cook books. Perhaps he has become the Gordon Ramsey of HK? Expanding too quickly but unable to control the quality?! Not a good sign.

Over-hyped:

Fusion - Many people might disagree with me but I didn't find the food here amazing. OK, I'm not a fusion cuisine fan but the dishes here were neither innovative nor special. Brunch is good value because it includes a glass of champagne, an antipasti buffet, a main and another dessert buffet. The antipasti buffet was fine with lots of Mediterranean-style grilled vegs. and oysters... though the tripe was kinda odd amongst other dishes. My risotto with foie gras was a disappointment... the rice was way overcooked, the texture was almost like congee! Perhaps the chef caters to suit the locals' tastes, but I found his food 'neither here nor there'. Perhaps this is his way of interpreting 'fusion', but personally, I believe in order to do fusion well, the chef needs to be braver and much more creative with the combination of ingredients.

Yin Yang (CHINESE) - Interesting location & space but according to my friends, the standards have slipped since its move. We had to pre-order the food/ menu days before, so my anticipation was high. The food arrived very slowly and the description sounded better than the taste. Apparently the chef grows most of her own veggies in the N.T., but sadly the freshness and flavours didn't really come through in the cooking. The famous roast chicken was quite good, but not memorable. Dessert was a sloppy red bean soup, maybe the chef has had a bad day, but I am not that convinced.

Nice surprises:

EN - This Okinawan bar/restaurant in Lan Kwai Fong turned out to be surprisingly good! I don't know too much about Okinawan food, but everything we had was tasty and interesting (in a good way). There were also lots of sake to choose from, ours went very well with our snack-like dishes. The place was quite empty that evening, we sat outside on the balcony for the meal and then moved inside for drinks. This place made us feel like we were in a small Tokyo bar/restaurant, we almost forgot that we were in HK until we got out of the building and back onto the loud & rowdy D'Aguilar St!

Il Bel Paese (ITALIAN DELI) - We almost missed this deli in Happy Valley but luckily we didn't. We walked in out of curiosity, not knowing that you can buy your food at the counter and eat it upstairs. Everything we had tasted fresh and the bread was delicious. My friend and I were both tempted to buy everything home. This is a real gem in the city!

OVO (CHINESE) - It's usually quite rare to find a restaurant with the combination of tasteful decor and good food. Most of the time, it's either one or the other, but Ovo actually lives up to its hype. The decor and food reminded me of Hutong but I enjoyed my meal here more. Probably less pretentious, and the attentive service made us feel quite comfy here. The portion sizes were just right and the food was delicious. The spicy food also went exceptionally well with our wine, it was an enjoyable meal!

San Xi Lou (SICHUAN) – The location is probably not the most convenient, but the food here was tasty and quite authentic. It’s hard to find good Sichuan restaurants in HK, Xiao Nan Guo used to serve some good Sichuan dishes but standards have slipped recently, so this was a good find. Clean and professional service, a very good restaurant overall.

Sabatini - It has probably been 15 years since i last came but everything seems to look the same. Brunch here is good-value with lots of antipasti and a good range of mains and desserts to choose from. The food was not outstanding but quality was overall high. We liked the warm service and the nostalgic factor, probably a sign of us aging...

Tonkichi - Probably serves the best Japanese style pork katsu in town! Friendly service, clean and efficient, hence, this place is always full! Best come before or after the busy lunch hour! Unlimited cabbage is fab and the oysters are fat and juicy too! I really recommend this place!

Other restaurants:

American restaurant (PEKINGESE) - Came with a bunch of expats and we all enjoyed our meal here in this ANCIENT restaurant in Wai Chai. Don't expect great service, fancy decor or presentation, but portions are big and food is decent. Yes, it is noisy, a bit rude but it's also very 'Hong Kong'.

Bacar wine brasserie (PIZZA, TAPAS) - I was pleasantly surprised by this bar/ restaurant by the escalator! We only came in here because it was late and there was nowhere else to go for a meal! Staff here was friendly and attentive, and food arrived very quickly. The tapas dishes were tasty and pizza was thin and crispy... not a destination restaurant but a good place for late night snacks.

Bee Japanese curry shop – Japanese style curry is one of my favourite comfort food! The katsu curry I had here was quite good and the portion size was decent too. Would come back again whenever I get a Japanese curry craving.

Cafe Graham (INTERNATIONAL) - friends' favourite haunt in Central. Good comfort food with decent prices. Tiramisu is much better than Cova's. Honestly, who needs fancy decor?!

Chiu Chow Garden - Sorry to say this but this place is for expats and foreign visitors who are not familiar with Chiu Chow cuisine. The fancy tableware, presentation and decor = high prices! Personally, I would rather eat downstair at Shanghai Garden (both owned by Maxim) which I think is less fancy and serves better food.

Cucina (CHINESE/ ITALIAN) - Nice setting with a good view of the harbour and skyline of HK. We were expecting fusion food but instead we were given 2 menus - one Chinese and one Italian. Food was pretty good and service was friendly. Best for birthday celebrations or group dinners!

Dickens bar - not sure about their Western food but the lunch curry buffet is a bargain! Much better than Viceroy!

Domon Sapporo ramen - Small ramen place in TST recommended by a friend. We got there after the lunch hour so there were plenty of seats to choose from. My friend didn't like her soup broth nor the texture of noodles, while I was ok with mine and thought the gyoza was quite good. Obviously this place is not as good as the real deal, but it's not too bad esp. when you have a ramen craving.

Farm House (CANTONESE/ DIM SUM) – Dim sum here was fine and a bit pricey. Not a bad choice for this area.

Fringe Club - Brunch here was quite good and inexpensive, if it's not too hot/ humid, it can be quite nice to sit outside on the roof-top. We tried, but gave up and went inside after about 5 mins!

Frites (BEGIAN) - We got what we wanted: moules, frites et biere + a very noisy crowd! Not a place to chat, so eat, drink and leave!

Fu Sing seafood restaurant (CANTONESE/ DIM SUM)- Dim sum here was good, though don't expect much service, very typical HK style service esp. during the busy lunch hour!

Gold Medal Hotpot (A direct translation, not sure what it’s English name is) - I haven’t been to a hotpot place for ages, so I was quite looking forward to this even though it’s in Jordan. The place is surprisingly modern looking for a hot pot place, the carriage-style seating was not so comfy, but we managed to squeezed in. We had 2 broth, a spicy one and a clear one, as well as lots of beef, tripe, fish & meat balls, tofu and veggies. The quality of the food was quite good, we ate continuously for hours and washed down with champagne (brought by a friend). The bill was very reasonable, so we all left satisfied and went for desserts across the street!

I Caramba! (MEXICAN) - A narrow and small restaurant in Soho serving Tex-Mex food. Hearty portions, not exactly gourmet food but it's probably what you need after a few happy hour cocktails.

Jimmy's Kitchen (INTERNATIONAL) - a regular haunt for my parents since I was a kid. Nothing much has changed over the years in this Central branch... My favourite is their curry dishes!

JJs, Grand Hyatt - Very good Thai food, maybe not THAT authentic, but everything was tasty and full of flavours, no complaints from us!

Kaetsu, Grand Hyatt - Two tables on a Sat night? A bad sign for this Japanese restaurant! Probably due to this reason, the standard of food was better than usual. We had a very good meal here!

Kiku - I have not been here for years, not sure if it's me or has the prices dropped? Standard Japanese fare but dinner was relatively quiet, so not a bad choice if you want to stay away from Lan Kwai Fong and Soho.

Mos burger - very Japanese burger joint! Small tasty burgers, though not as good as my first Mos burger in Tokyo years ago, salmon with seaweed and brown rice... yummy.

Mrs Jones (ITALIAN) - We had lunch here one afternoon and the food turned out to be pleasant but nothing special. There was sand in the Linguine alle Vongole and it was probably a bit too spicy (I think they used too much bird's eye chilli). The tuna nicoise was ok, again, nothing special. Overall, it was a fine lunch with laid back service and relaxed atmosphere.

Ngau Kee Food Café (HK STYLE) – Small but very busy local restaurant with TV on the wall and communal round tables. We were told that the scrambled eggs with prawns here is excellent, and so we had high hopes. Thankfully, the eggs were not overcooked and it came with many decent-size prawns, but the rose chicken on the otherhand was just ok. Not knowing the sizes of the dishes, we ended up ordering too much! But the biggest problem we had was the timing, we had to wait about 10-15 mins for each dish to arrive, it was like having a 3 course meal with one dish after the other!

O Sip Hah (THAI) - From the outside, this restaurant looks very European, but actually it serves modern Thai cuisine. Some of dishes we had were very good but some were just average, slightly inconsistent. Overall, we liked the ambience and enjoyed our meal, the weak point was probably the service... it was just a bit too clinical.

The Pawn - Never dined here but came here for drinks twice. Not so sure about the mix and match British pub-like decor... it doesn't seem to go with the building itself. Drinks are not cheap and the TV really put me off.

Peak cafe, Soho (INTERNATIONAL) - Convenient location makes this a popular bar in Soho. Cocktails are pretty good with many Asian and Western snacks available. Less noisy at the back.

Post 97 (INTERNATIONAL) - Good value lunch menu with decent food. The 90s decor also bring back old memories...

Rei sushi, IFC - Came here twice and I have mixed feelings about this place. I thought the standard of food was quite good but I wasn't sure about the price tag. Like many other restaurants in IFC, it's a bit overpriced.

Rice paper, TST - If you strip away the fancy decor, you are left with an ordinary Asian style restaurant serving average and not so authentic food at inflated prices. Their trick? Being in high-traffic locations/ malls.

Ruby Tuesday, (AMERICAN) CWB - My experience here was horrid, but not in terms of food, I was simply appalled by their customers! Sitting by the salad bar was a revelation... I have never seen so many greedy, selfish and shameless people all in one room! In very typical HK style, these customers would spend on average 20 mins trying to pile as much as possible into a small salad bowl, despite everything spilling over onto the floor at the same time. There was no regards for other customers and staff (the bar soon turned into a real mess), and they looked so proud of their achievements! The poor waitress had to sweep the floor continuously because there were tomatoes, lettuce & croutons everywhere! I don't want to sound like a snob, but I would be embarrassed to bring foreign visitors here! This all reminds me of 'Spirited Away' when Chihiro's parents turned into pigs by the food stall... scary!

Sanpachi Ramen - My friend's recent discovery was this ramen place in the busy Causeway Bay. The texture of the noodles was quite good, but my broth was not hot enough... a bit disappointing. Will probably give it another try in the future.

Sen-ryo - not a bad place for a quick meal if you can get a seat! The lack of cheapish places in IFC makes this a very popular joint. My favourite is the grilled eel sushi!

Shiro, Pacific place - Sushi was quite fresh, with some unusual dishes on the menu. But I wasn't not so fond of like the environment, I just didn't feel comfortable there.

Simply Thai, Time Square – Cocktails were good here but the food was only so so. Not very authentic, just another average Thai restaurant.

Soho soho - Hardly anyone here during the busy lunch hour... service was friendly and food was quite good in this modern British restaurant, though not particularly memorable.

Tasty congee & noodle wonton shop - I have been here a few times and I find the congee ok but not fantastic. The fried dough cheung fun was a bit disappointing. It’s ok if you just want a quick lunch in the IFC, but I would rather walk further and go to a more local congee shop.

Thai Empress chicken (direct translation), Wai Chai - A friend took me to this small busy restaurant that specialises in Thai style Hainanese chicken. Cramped tables and uncomfortable seats make you want to spend very little time here. We picked a set menu for 2 which was very good value and the portions were huge. The food was tasty but this is definitely not a place to linger!

Very Good restaurant (CANTONESE) - Despite the amusing name, this place actually turned out to be better than I expected! My Korean friends were in town and they wanted to have some typical Cantonese food in Kowloon, where I go once in a blue moon. Then I found this on the internet, thanks to the many restaurant review blogs! I encouraged my friends to try the roast pigeons and they were pleasantly surprised. Portions were huge, reasonably priced and very tasty, though I suspected that we probably gulped down tonnes of MSG as well!

Wa San Mai (JAPANESE) - Nice view and comfortable seating. We came during lunch and didn't have the teppanyaki. My stone pot rice with crab and sea urchin set was good value and included many side dishes. Overall, not a bad choice for lunch in CWB.

Xiao Nan Guo (SHANGHAINESE/ SIUCHUAN) - Used to be better a few years ago, food standard and service have both slipped. The 'wow' factor has gone, but their cold tofu with 1000 year old eggs dish is still better than Ye Shanghai's.

Ye Shanghai - not bad but not as good as Shanghai Garden.

Yee Tung Heen (CANTONESE/ DIM SUM) - Standards have definitely slipped... dim sum was not as good as before, and the fried dishes were too greasy.

Zest (INTERNATIONAL)- Bright and airy Mediterranean-style decor made us feel like we were in Europe. Brunch was pretty good, no surprises, but a good place to relax on a Sat/Sun afternoon.

Zhong Guo Song (HK STYLE)) – An odd Chinese home-style cooking restaurant in Lan Kwai Fong. Its down to earth style is a contrast to many of the pretentious restaurants nearby. I can’t say the food was fab. but it’s not bad if you want a substantial meal at a decent price.

Michelin guide (Hong Kong)

The new Hong Kong and Macau Michelin guide has caused quite a stir in Hong Kong. Some people are thrilled, others are skeptical. In general, Cantonese/Hong Kong people prefer affordable local dishes such as wonton noodles and fish ball ho fan, high-end Chinese cuisine is quite out of reach for many locals. However, many restaurants on the list are inside 4/5 star-hotels, and they are all pretty pricey. Many skeptics don't trust the French's judgments on Chinese cuisine and I don't blame them. But then again, Michelin never judges on just the food, usually service, ambience and wine lists are all taken into considerations. Whether we agree or not, we have to admire Michelin's marketing skills, since many diners around the world still treat their guides as bibles (just look at their fans in Japan). Chefs have committed suicide when their Michelin stars were taken away, so Michelin is still very influential in the restaurant world today.

I don't reside in Hong Kong anymore, but I do visit regularly and would try out different restaurants each time. Looking at the H.K. list, I was shocked to see Lung King Heen being awarded three stars. I tried the restaurant with some friends about 2 years ago but didn't find it particularly special.

Others that I have been to are: 2 stars- Summer Palace, Shang Palace and T'ang Court (it's actually quite good). 1 star - Fook Lam Moon, Hutong (I prefer their original and cheaper branch, Water Margin, but I guess this has better views and ambience), Shanghai Garden (my mum's favourite) and Yung Kee (has been my dad's canteen for about 20 years). I am surprised not to see any Italian nor Japanese on the list, and it seems that most Chinese restaurants on the list are Cantonese except for 2.

I don't think we should take this list too seriously, accurate or not, Michelin has already caused enough publicity. I doubt most H.K. people would agree on their choices of restaurants, but as long as it can boost the economy and tourism, I am sure they are not going to be too upset after all.