Tuesday, 22 June 2010
London Architecture festival: Hampstead walk (modern architecture)
66 Frognal House
Due to my travels, I am unable to attend many interesting events oraganised by the London Architecture festival, but I really enjoyed the free Hampstead walk led by architect Tim Bruce-Dick. The tour was relatively short but we were given a map with information and an article on modern architecture. Even though I live nearby, I had no idea there are so many hidden gems in the area, so it was quite a revelation to me esp. the Branch Hill housing estate (due to refurbishment, I couldn't take photos but will definitely pay another visit in the future).
I became more interested in my local area in the past 2 years, paying more attention to the architecture and activities that go on in the local communities. Usually we take the same route home everyday and we never notice or SEE what is around us, so occasionally I would take an alternative route just to explore the area a bit more. If we do this more, we would then notice the roses across the street, the huge tree at the end of the road or the church that we never took notice of... Sometimes, we have to take alternative routes to see things properly from a different angle!
The Priory by Rick Mather (1997)
6 1/2 Redington Road by John McAslan and Partners (2007)
House on Redington Road by Richard Webb
66 Frognal house by Connell Ward & Lucas (1938), restored by Avanti to orginal colours in 2005
Sun House by Maxwell Fry (1935)
Blackburn house by Chassay Wright (1987)
Michael Hopkins house, a glass house hidden behind the bushes on Downshire Hill (1975)
A house by John Winter on Belsize Lane/ Ornan Road (1971)
Other interesting architecture in the area:
St John's Downshire Hill (1823)
Old fire station in Lancaster Grove (1915)
Tranquil London
The pergola at Hill garden, Hampstead
A lot of Londoners and tourists complain about how hectic London is but I tend to disagree with them. I love living in London, despite the high living standards and crappy weather, I am constantly amazed by the how much London has to offer. London can be very hectic if you hang out in the West End and around Oxford Street, but it can also be peaceful and calming with tons of places that make you forget you are in the middle of a capital with almost 8 million people.
Try going to Bank/ Moorgate area in the weekends, they are like ghost towns; yet not so far away is the buzzling Spitalfields market, the contrast is huge! London is a city full of contradictions and surprises, one minute you are in a middle class neighbourhood, next minute you are already in front of blocks of council flats. Just check out Nottinghill, Camden/ Primrose Hill, Kings Cross/ Angel...
Since I am a North Londoner, I tend to hang out in this area more than anywhere else and Primrose Hill and Hampstead Heath are favourite spots in London. Sometimes I would go when I am feeling down but would instantly feel better because of the greenery/ scenic view. Within the Heath, I particularly like Hill Garden and Pergola, which I think is a magical place, not only it is tranquil but also inspiring. Walking along the pergola immediately transports me back to the early 20th century and reminds me of books / films like 'Secret gardens' and 'A Little Princess'. Everything about this place fits perfectly together, the landscape, view, trees, plants and the fact that not many people know about this makes it even more special. Recently I brought my Amercian/ New Yorker friend here and she was gobsmacked by beauty of this place, and her view of London changed completely after our visit!
Hill Garden, Hampstead
Primrose Hill and Parliment Hill in Hampstead both offer great views of London, I love walking up to the top of Primrose Hill and then seeing London right in front of me. It's an elevating feeling and I could sit there for hours just watching the clouds and the skyline!
Primrose Hill
Parliment Hill, Hampstead
There are hundreds of parks and squares all over London, but on a hot and sunny day, many of these parks can be busier than Oxford Street! So here are some of my recommendations for tranquility within the city:
Regents Park - Personally I prefer Regents Park over Hyde Park because it is smaller and has beautiful gardens like Queen Mary's gardens and Avenue gardens (which is more European than English).
Avenue gardens
Kensington palace gardens - Kensington garden can get very busy in the summer, but tranquility can be found within the garden just by the palace away from the crowds.
Kensington palace garden
Buckingham Palace gardens - not that you can hang out here all the time, but the Queen's back garden is very calming and I would hang out there more if I didn't have to pay an entrance fee each time!
The Queen's back yard
Fulham Palace - this is not really a palace, it was owned by the Bishops of London and used as their country home from at least the 11th century. The palace now has a small museum, temporary exhibition space, a shop and cafe. The best part is its back garden (free entry) which include woodland, meadow, lawns and an 18th-century walled herb garden. The lawn right facing the palace and cafe is usually busy esp. with all the mums & their kids in the afternoons but the walled garden is much quieter and calmer. You can lay on the grass or sit on a bench with a book and listen to the bell ringing sounds from All Saints church (where part of 'Omen' was filmed) nearby, it is a rather pleasant experience. The palace used to be surrounded by the longest moat in England, so you can now do a moat trail but actually there is no much left to see!
Fulham Palace
Kew Gardens - a whole day is needed to walk around Kew, although it's tiring it will make you feel good at the end of the day.
Kew Gardens
Regent canal walks - Last year, my friend and I decided to explore the Regent canals and we would spend a few hours each week walking along the canals in Maida Vale, St John's Wood, Paddington, Islington and Camden. I love these walks and the best thing is that there are no crowds nor traffic and a wonderful way to explore London.
Canal by Regent's park (also in Islington and Maiden Vale)
Thames path walks
Another lovely way to experience a not so bustling London is to walk along the Thames. Thames path starts in Greenwich and goes beyond greater London. Usually tourists (and even locals) like to walk along the South bank and Tower Bridge section, but actually it's quieter and nicer to walk towards or through Putney, Fulham, Hammersmith and Richmond.
Thames path near Hammersmith
Thames path near Putney bridge
Camley Street nature park - who would have thought tranquility can be found in the middle of Kings Cross by the Eurostar station? But this is London, anything can happen... there's wetland, woodland and wildlife, what else can you ask for? I never knew of this place until recently and was completely shocked by my discovery! And I thought I knew London...
Camley Street nature park by the canal
Apart from parks and gardens, sometimes museums can be surprisingly peaceful too. Here are some of my favourites:
Somerset House - There are times when Somerset house can be very busy esp. during Christmas and summer but back in May, I went to an evening event there and left early because of crowds... while it was completely hectic inside, the square was surprisingly calm. I sat there for about 20 minutes completely forgetting that I was in the middle of London and the year is 2010 rather than 1890.
Somerset House
Victoria and Albert Museum - This is one of my favourite museums in London and the best time to come is either early in the mornings or late in the evenings when there are not so many tourists. Walking around the square without heaps of tourists can be a wonderful experience...
Victoria & Albert Museum
Geffrye Museum - Personally, I don't like Shoreditch, I think it's dirty, dodgy and full of people trying to be hip/ trendy. However, I do like this museum housed in a 18th century building, it brings serenity to a not so serene area.
Geffrye Museum in Shoreditch
Conservatory @ Barbican Centre - I used to hate the Barbican Centre esp. its 50s concrete architecture and confusing layout. Yet since I became their member, the place kind of grew on me. Although I still dislike its architecture, layout and the ultra-slow lifts, I do enjoy the cultural events held there. Last year, I discovered the conservatory, a relevation that really changed my opinion about the place. I love the fact that in the middle of an urban concrete jungle lies a tropical greenhouse, although it looks slightly tatty up-close, it's the ambience that I like esp. in the evenings.
Freud Museum & Camden Arts Centre - I like the Freud Museum because it is compact with not that many tourists and has a nice relaxing back garden. However, since it is not free, it's not exactly a place where I can hang out. But not far from the Museum is the Camden Arts Centre where anyone can visit for free, there are always interesting exhibitions upstairs, a cafe that serves decent snacks or light meals and best of all, a small garden where people can hang out in the summer. The garden is surprisingly calm considering it's right next the busy and soulless Finchley Road!
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