A wonderful world: A sensual & chaotic maze... Bangkok

BUSTLING, HOT, NOISY, LIBERAL, EXOTIC, HOSPITABLE, DIRTY, TRANQUIL, SEEDY, RELIGIOUS, CHEAP, COLOURFUL

I have visited Bangkok 4 times but I always feel disorientated when I am there, the place is like a maze... with many back and side streets yet without many obvious landmarks to direct you around the city. My feelings towards Bangkok is quite mixed, sometimes I think it's great but sometimes it just drives me crazy. It is a city full of contradictions, it can be chaotic and yet tranquil, traditional and yet open-minded... it's a city with many faces.

In this city, your senses are constantly being stimulated: the smell of street food, the endless traffic jams, high noise level esp. around the Sukhumvit Road area and the taste of spices... If you are tired of it all, there are hundreds of day spas or massage parlours to choose from where your senses can be stimulated again...but in a relaxing way!

From the minute you arrive at the airport until the day you leave, it would be hard not to notice photos of the (youngish) King of Thailand. He is everywhere. It is quite obvious that he is highly respected in his country. But even the King is unable to control the political turmoil within his country. Despite being a religious country, with almost 95% of the population being Buddhists (Theravada), a reglion that believes peace (inner and outer) is the solution to our problematic world, yet the continuous violence over the country's political issue reveals a different story. Part of the problem is to do with the inequality of wealth, the differences between the privileged and the poor is esp. obvious in Bangkok. I don't want to go into the political issue here, but through conversations with my Thai friends, I know that the situation is unlikely to go away and if anything happens to the King (health wise), the country will definitely suffer from another huge turmoil. It is a bomb waiting to explode.

Buddhism plays an important part in the Thai society

It's very hard to sum up a city like Bangkok, but here are some of my reasons for liking and disliking it.

The bright side:

Although there isn't much evidence of city planning, there are usually nice surprises behind the chaos... walking down the narrow alleys, you might come across a cute cafe or a spa hidden inside a tropical garden. In a way, it reminds me a bit of Tokyo where there are hidden gems allover the city, but a good pair of sneakers/ trainers and maps are necessary...

Low prices & hospitality: Bangkok is still relatively cheap compared to most developed cities. Luxury is easy to find but probably at less than half the price you normally pay back home. Together with hospitable services, it is no wonder why Bangkok (or Thailand) attracts so many tourists from around the world. The best deals I ever found were paying USD 100 per night (for two) at The Oriental (with river view) and Banyan Tree... Unbelievable!

Food: Despite the popularity of Thai food in the West, the best Thai food can only be experienced in Thailand. It is the freshness of ingredients, herbs and spices that are key to their cooking. Street food always looks tempting and the aroma is hard to resist.

Spas: Thailand definitely has the best spas in the world, it's not just the hospitality, but a combination of decor (use of wood and plants), smell (natural incense) and sound (water is often used as an alternative to music). It's almost impossible not relax in a Thai spa... the smell of lemongrass is my favourite.

The dark side:

Honestly, the seediness of Bangkok still disturbs me, esp. when I see old balding Caucasian guys hanging out with very young girls/ boys around town. I can't help but be repelled by the sights... I also took a peek at the street full of 'bars' where only Japanese businessmen are allowed to visit, it makes me wonder what is going on behind the closed doors?! My Thai friend thinks this market depends solely on the economies of scale... Call it exploitations or transactions, but mo matter how you call it, this is a part of Bangkok (or Thailand) that I do not like.

Traffic: Bangkok and Los Angeles used to regarded as the unofficial jammiest cities in the world in terms of traffic. Thankfully, since the opening of the Skytrain in 1999, traffic definitely improved a lot. Also with the rise of developing cities like Moscow and Beijing (both are now considered the jammiest), Bangkok has graudally slipped down the list, but it is still incredibly frustrating to be stuck in a Bangkok traffic jam and this could even happen at midnight!

The famous Bangkok traffic

Taxis: Whenever I am in Bangkok, I avoid taking taxis because of some bad experiences from the past. I have encountered many dishonest drivers who would deliberately 'take us for a ride'. I have been stuck in traffic jams for an hour and still arrived at the wrong locations! Beware!

Animal cruelty: Again, this is totally against the Buddhism religion, yet it can be seen allover the country. Despite elephants' symbolic status in Thailand, it is still being mistreated, together with monkeys and snakes etc, they are often chained up and used in shows to attract tourists. Walking past the upmarket Emporium Shopping Complex, I saw an elephant working as a 'prop' outside the mall in the heat for days because the mall is hosting a jungle theme festival. No one seems to be bothered by the sight, but I can't help but wonder where are the animal rights people when you need them?!

An elephant 'working' outside a shopping mall

Best time to visit: Bangkok is hot all the time but from around May to October is the rainy/low season (with daily showers every afternoon/ evening), so hotels prices are greatly reduced. High season is around the winter period when it is not as hot but still sunny.

Must-see sights:

The Jim Thompson House:
If you only have a few hours to do sightseeing in Bangkok, I would suggest visiting the Jim Thompson house. Although a little bit difficult to find, once you get there, it's like you are in a different world and time zone, the sense of tranquility can be immediately felt. This house is the best example of 'East meets West' architecture, everything is perfect and in harmony, even the mini exotic jungle fits in well with the surroundings. There are daily tours given and it's fascinating to learn about Thompson's intereting yet mysterious life, which makes the house even more appealing.

Jim Thompson house

Temples and Palace:
The 18th century Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha are key tourist attractions in Bangkok. The nicest way to visit is to hire a private guide ( for 1/2 or a whole day) who will explain the history and lead you through the complex. But remember to bring sunblock and hats because it can be extremely hot walking around.
Adjacent to the Grand Palace is the Wat Pho, the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok with a 46 meters long reclining gold Buddha. Truly spectacular!

Wat Arun, Temple of Dawn is another beautiful temple by the river, and easily accessible by boat.

Wat Arun

River Cruise
It might seem corny but river cruising in Bangkok can be fun and interesting esp. if you have time to visit the floating market. If time is limited, it's still relatively easy to do a short trip (board near The Oriental hotel) along the river, but be sure to avoid the animal shows, it's a tourist trap!

Houses by the river

Erawan Shrine/ Four-Faced Buddha
This is an interesting site in the middle of the shopping district, right next to Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel. Built in 1956 to eliminate bad karma of the State-owned Erawan hotel, this Hindu shrine is well-known in Asia and attract devotees (including non-Hindus) from many neighbouring countries. The Shrine is said to have power to make wishes come true, devotees make their wishes and offerings. And when their wishes come true, they have to return within the year to make offerings as a gesture of gratitude, otherwise, bad karma will reverse their good fortune.

The Erawan Shrine located between shopping malls and hotels

Museums & galleries:

Museum of Siam - This newly-opened (since 2008) interactive museum is suitable for adults and children. It is not only educational but the informal and well-designed setting provides a great opportunity for tourists to learn about the history of Thailand. A must for all!

Thailand Creative & Design Center on the 6th floor of the Emporium department store is a 'must' if you are interested in design. There are facilities such as a restaurant, exhibition halls, design library and design shop (that sells local and foreign designs). Material ConneXion, the well-known material rescources library is also located here (the only one in Asia), so it is possible to spend all day here!

Food:

To experience authentic, fresh and inexpensive Thai food, the best places are to be found on the streets. One of my all-time favourite cookbooks is David Thompson's Thai food, the inclusion of street food recipes makes a cut above the rest and it also sums up the importance of street food in Thai culture. I have never had better Pai Thai than on the streets, however, it is crucial to be careful to pick the right vendours because of hygiene reasons. Usually, if the vendour is popular with the locals, then the ingredients are most likely to be fresh. I also prefer to watch them cook just to be sure. I was told by my Thai friends ( chefs and restaurant owner) that the best place for street food is in the old Chinatown area and they promised to do a street vendour tasting in the area when I am next in town.

Street food stalls

Besides street food, food courts in shopping malls (like Emporium) also offer a wide range of cuisines if budget is limited. Otherwise, there are plenty of excellent restaurants in town and here are just a handful of them:

Bussaracum - A famous Bangkok restaurant that has been serving Royal Thai cuisine for almost 30 years. It has been named as one of the top Thai restaurants in Bangkok and even provides cooking classes. I dined at its Silom Road location a few years ago but haven't tried the new and trendier site in Sukhumvit. If you want to try elegant and Royal style Thai cuisine, then this is THE place to visit.

Le Dalat Indochine - A popular Vietnamese (with French accent) restaurant located inside a house from the 1950s. Great ambience and service with good and decently priced food.

Seafood market: If it swims, we have it - This bizarre 'conceptual' seafood restaurant is touristy and overpriced but the experience is definitely a memorable one! It is a cross between a large canteen (seats over 1500) and a supermarket. You would get your supermarket trolley and you can shop for your ingredients (mainly seafood and vegetables) like you do in a supermarket, you pay for them at the cashier and bring them to your table where waiters would ask you to choose your preferred cooking methods. They would charge you again for whatever cooking methods you choose. There is also a wine cellar where you can purchase wine to go with your food. It is hard not enjoy your meal here, even though you know it is quite overpriced. The whole experience, together with the fluorescent lighting and tacky decor make this place not only special and quite surreal!

A surreal dining experience

Gialong - Located inside the Central world shopping mall, this Vietnamese/ Thai restaurant is clean, modern and comfortable. The food is pretty good and decently priced, although there are better restaurants in town, it is the ambience that makes it stand out.

Kuppa - This popular cafe/ restaurant in a former warehouse serves good international cuisine and desserts. The spacious industrial setting is airy and relaxing, but the interesting part is the large coffee roasting machine in the corner of the restaurant where coffee is roasted, packaged and sold here. A great place to hang out both during the day and in the evening!

Agalico - This well-hidden colonial-style tea house & garden is very popular amongst local expats and foreign visitors. Owned by an interior & landscape designer, the all-white tea house is sophisticated, stylish and extremely tranquil. Afternoon tea is a must here and since it only opens from Friday to Sunday, it's best to reserve in advance to avoid disappointment.

Agalico

Shopping:

Chatuchak weekend market - This is the largest weekend market in Bangkok where you can find thousands of vendours selling handicrafts, tablewares, food and clothing etc. Best to visit when it's not too hot/ around midday because it can be quite unbearable to walk around in the heat!

Geo - This is a rather unusual lifestyle store that sells artistic and nature-inspired products. The shop is airy and stylish and most of the products sold here are locally made. Even if you are not in a shopping mood, wandering inside the store can be a pleasant and inspiring experience.

Propaganda - A local design store that sells gimmicky and playful products from stationery to housewares and gifts. An alternative choice for souvenirs if you are bored of the traditional Thai/ Asian style housewares.

It's happened to be a closet - Despite the ungrammatical name, this is a popular local designer fashion store inside the Emporium shopping mall. Items are pretty pricey but you can sit in the cafe outside or reserve the private dining room inside the store. Customers can also dine inside the store while shoppers rummage through piles of clothing around them. Definitely an unusual shopping experience in Bangkok!

Private dining room inside the fashion store, It's happened to be a closet

Spas & beauty:

It's hard to avoid seeing spas and beauty salons in Bangkok, they seem to be everywhere! Most four and five star hotels have in-house spas, but it's usually cheaper to visit local day spas which offer equally high standard treatments. Spa treatments in Thailand are much cheaper than most countries, hence they are popular amongst tourists, so it's best to book early esp. the popular ones.

If money is no object, then The Oriental spa is my top choice. First of all, you will need to cross the river via the hotel boat to get there, upon arrival, you will see a tropical oasis that is beautifully designed with exotic plants and teakwood. The best thing about the spa is that you will get your own treatment suite with private shower, steam room, jacuzzi and sound control system (you can choose to listen the sound of birds or water etc). Frequently voted as the best spa in the world by different travel magazines, it fully lives up to its title. Souvenir to take home: lemongrass body lotion.

Another impressive hotel spa is the BanyanTree spa which has a great view in the city. The spa is extremely popular, so it is best to book in advance.

Divana day Spa
With several locations in the city centre, this popular Thai-style day spa is an oasis in the city. The spa also offers a wide range of products available for purchase. Souvenir to take home: rose hand cream.

Refresh 24 spa
This large day spa offers a range of treatments at pretty low prices. Friendly, clean and centrally located, a great place for Thai massage.

Palette nail salon
There are many nail salons in the city but this one opposite the Emporium shopping complex is one of the best salons I have been to. Excellent service, clean, comfortable and decently priced, my pedicure lasted over a month, truly great value for money!

Architecture: