The first time I visited Antwerp was in the early 90s, I fell in love with place instantly because despite the cosmopolitan side, it has a sense of calmness and understated quality to it. And of course, I was also very into their fashion back then... I vividly remember buying a pair of black Ann Demeulemeester trousers (I still have them) and a deconstructive-style scarf by Dries Van Noten. I remember shoving down waffles and fries constantly; and missing the last ferry back to England... it was a carefree period of my life. Then I returned again in 2001, stayed at the 'hip boutique' hotel, De Witte Lelie and ate at more upmarket restaurants than my previous trip. But eventually got sick from some bad mussels, luckily it all happened after I returned home.
After over 8 years, I went back for the 3rd time. The city is still charming and trendy but something has changed... There seem to be a lot more immigrants and I found the services in some of the restaurants, shops and museums quite appalling. It's unfair to generalise because there were some very friendly faces, but I also had some bad experiences (mostly in 'hip'/ trendy places, surprise, surprise): Uninterested, unprofessional or plain rude. Most of the time, they were just slow... this was probably down to lack of proper training. It's a shame because I like the city a lot but bad services are simply unacceptable.
Back to the city itself, since the centre is not very big, it is quite easy and nice to walk around. There are many interesting museums, Flemish architecture, good restaurants, cool fashion and vintage furniture shops, so it is necessary to spend at least 3 days to fully enjoy what the city has to offer. I love stumbling into small unknown galleries or walking past random street art installations, there are just so many hidden gems in the city waiting to be discovered.
Best time to visit: summer
Tip: Most museums are closed on Mondays, so go shopping instead!
My favourite museum:
Plantin Moretus Museum
This wonderful 16th century printing museum is an Unesco world heritage site. Apart from the printing facilities, there are offices, library, shop, dining room, kitchen and a beautiful courtyard. There is a fascinating collection of printing equipments, typographical materials, manuscripts as well as paintings by Ruben.
Besides the mainstream museums like Ruben's House and Royal Academy of Fine Arts, there are many excellent ones like: Fotomuseum, MoMu/ Fashion museum, Ethnographic Museum (closed until 2010), Rockox House Museum, Museum Vleeshuis (A former butcher's guild but now a music & instruments museum!) and Middleheim Museum (an outdoor art & sculpture park).
An egg and an apple on top of the Royal Academy of Fine arts museum
Interior of MoMu (Architect: Marie-José Van Hee)
Musical instrument workshop at Museum Vleeshuis
A church or an art gallery?
Other Must-see sights:
Cathedral of Our Lady - another world heritage site, this magnificent 14th century gothic-style cathedral is unmissable. It took over 100 years to complete and houses many masterpieces including some from Ruben.
Central station -This must be one of the most beautiful stations in the world!
Food & Restaurants:
There are many upmarket / trendy restaurants, brasseries, beer halls and cafes in town, as well as fries and waffles shops... not great if you are on a diet!
Restaurants:
Neuze Neuze - A cosy restaurant serving Belgian/ French cuisine, quite rich but high quality food.
Dock's cafe - Very popular restaurant/ bar near the Maritime museum. Good atmosphere and seafood, esp. oysters.
Facade - A small friendly neighbourhood restaurant in a lovely square.
Cafe/ restaurant Bourla - located inside the Bourla theatre, this wonderful cafe/ restaurant is spacious and relaxing. I love the surrounding area, so this place is a convenient and nice spot for snacks and drinks.
Grand Cafe Horta - Interesting architecture using the 'left-overs' from Victor Horta's art nouveau building in Brussels (demolished). Quite good food, relaxed atmosphere and friendly service.
Others:
Biologisch-Dynamische Bakkerij - I found this rustic and charming bakery/ cafe by chance, after walking out of the pretentious and rude Fiskebar (why put up with the Russian/ Moscow-style service in Antwerp?). Friendly service, cosy and very cute (esp. the school desk-like tables and the toilet area with an old large scale). Great place for breakfast/ brunch.
Frituur No. 1 - THE most famous fries shop in Antwerp! Whenever I see fries with mayo, I will always think of 'Pulp Fiction'! Not great for the health nor waistline, but who can resist these yummy fries?!
Van Hecke - A traditional waffle house since 1905, unpretentious and delicious!
Désiré de Lille - Probably a bit touristy and not a great place to linger, but the waffles are freshly made and the service is efficient and cheerful. Good place for a quick snack/ afternoon tea.
Günther Watté
A modern and stylish chocolate shop and tea room. A good place for a hot chocolate, cake and coffee, though the service was a bit slow and inattentive.
Shopping:
Antwerp is a great place for 'alternative' shopping, like unconventional fashion and jewellery, vintage clothing & furniture, antiques... and heaven for chocolate lovers!
Chocolates:
Usually I prefer French chocolates over Belgian ones (I am not so keen on pralines nor milk chocolates), nonetheless, it would be a crime not to indulge a little while I was there... Apart from the famous chocolate names like Neuhaus, Leonidas and Godiva, other high-end chocolate names like Hans Burie, Pierre Marcolini and Del Rey (by the station) are worth trying. But I was pleasantly surprised when I discovered a supermarket brand, NewTree, which has a wide range of high-quality, unusual and 'cheap' chocolate range. High cocoa contents (many are over 70%), natural (GM free) with unique flavours, they are irresistible! Try the more unusual ones like chilli, thyme and ginger, they are not too overpowering, just a hint that leaves in your mouth, subtle, smooth and not too sweet. The packaging is modern and simple, nothing fancy. I highly recommend them!
Fashion & jewellery:
Walter - Even if you are not into his funky and original designs, his former garage shop is worth visiting. There are also other conceptual fashion and jewellery designer brands here. Cool.
Melt 65 - This shop sells many up and coming designers from Belgium, Sweden and Denmark. Individual and cute, many items are affordable and wearable.
Access - Not a standard high-street shop, this shop sells cool home furnishing products, fashion accessories and jewellery. Tasteful and unique.
Wouters & Hendrix - This Belgian contemporary jewellery brand has been one of my favourites for years. I love their unique and cool pieces. Quite expensive, so best to stock up during their seasonal sales.
Others:
Philip's Biscuits: Believe the hype! I am addicted to their ‘Antwerpse Handjes’ (Antwerp Hands)... they are the best! And they even have sugar-free ones for diabetics! Not cheap but definitely worth it. The tins are very cute too.
There are many weekend markets in the city, but I like the small Sint Jansvliet antique/ flea market on Sundays. Probably not for real antiques, but there are many retro items on sale, esp. old tins/ toys.
Funky shop displays:
Akotee, a kitsch-themed shop
Shoe cobbler
Marge Simpsons advertising for a hair salon!
Interesting & unusual architecture:
Theater Place
A lovely B & B
Street Art
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