My love and interest in film soundtracks probably started when I was quite young... I remember my dad used to play his soundtrack compilation tape while driving, like Doctor Zhivago, Love story, The Way We Were, The Godfather etc. I hadn't yet seen these films at the time, but I remember how the music lit up my parent's faces, and how my mum used to sing along to Moon River from 'Breakfast at Tiffany's'. I guess this early exposure has had some influence on me. My favourite soundtrack then was of course, 'The Sound of Music', I also loved the film and music from 'Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory' (the Gene Wilder one) and was terrified of the score from 'The Omen'. Though personally I would not purchase this soundtrack, I'd have to say it is one of the most memorable and the film would not be the same without the chilling score.
I love films and I believe that music/ sounds plays an important role in films. A good soundtrack can enhance a film and if the album outweighs the film, it can still be appreciated for its musical merits alone. Ideally, a good soundtrack should be able to transport the listeners back to the film, and the most successful ones are tunes that we recognise immediately like Star Wars' main theme. Originality is not the biggest issue, what matters is whether the music is appropriately used or not. Does it integrate with the scene/ mood? Sometimes a song/ music piece can merge so well that it reminds us of the film immediately when we hear a particular song/ music even though it wasn't written for the film originally. For example, Puccini's "O mio babbino caro" and 'A room with a view'. They are so ingrained in my mind that I can no longer separate the two anymore.
I have around 100 film soundtracks (a very small proportion considering the amount of films I have ever watched), and I rarely buy a soundtrack without watching the film first. Usually it is while I am watching the film, the superb fusion of image, sound and mood that motivates me to purchase a particular soundtrack. I used to be get quite excited after finding a rare/ hard-to-find soundtrack, but it's not the same these days with Amazon and MPS download from the internet. Everything is so much easier and convenient, but sometimes I miss the searching process, the thrill of finally finding something after years of searching...
Classic FM magazine recently conducted a poll to find out the 100 all-time favourite movie classical film music voted by their readers. I have not listened to all the soundtracks on the list, so I cannot judge them but I find the list quite mainstream (most are Hollywood blockbusters), with only a few foreign ones. Hence I have picked my all-time favourites, in no particular order and with some non-classical soundtracks:
English Patient, GABRIEL YARED (1996)
I have read the book and watched the film more than once, although I like the two leads and its cinematography, I fail to connect to the film. I guess I don't sympathise with the characters, so the film does not really move me. However, I think this soundtrack is excellent, and it certainly deserves the Oscar it received. A mixture of Hungarian folk tunes, jazz, classical and original music composed by the Lebanese composer, Gabriel Yared, the music not only incorporates with the ambience of the film, it is beautiful to listen to even if you have never watched the film. The Hungarian vocalist, Marta Sebestyen's voice is captivating and blends surprisingly well with the desert setting. 'Cheek to cheek' is playful and reminds me of that era. 'I'll always go back to that church' does what it says, it always reminds me of Juliette Binoche being in THAT church. Romantic, sad, nostalgic and exotic!
Other GABRIEL YARED recommendations: Betty Blue (1986) - Hazy and a bit melancholy, less 'dramatic' than 'The English Patient'; City of Angels (1998) - Crap remake but very good album featuring artists like U2, Alanis Morissette, Jimi Hendrix and original score by Yared. My favourite is Morissette's 'Uninvited'.
Happy Together Various artists (1997)
The first time I watched this Wong Kar-Wai film (over 10 years ago), I thought it was shot beautifully, but I didn't 'get' it. Then a few months ago, I watched it again and felt quite emotional... Perhaps I am more mature and experienced, so the loneliness, sadness and vulnerability all make sense to me now. However, I didn't need a second chance for the soundtrack, I fell in love with it almost instantly. I love tango and its music, but this album is not just about tango. Apart from Astor Piazzolla, there's also Caetano Veloso and Frank Zappa... everything works amazingly well together. I have never been to Argentina but this album always make me feel like I have wandered the streets of Buenos Aires, and it all blends with the colours and mood of the film. Passionate, nostalgic and sensual, an album for the night... late night.
Other WONG KAR-WAI recommendation: In the mood for love (2000) - This soundtrack combines Nat King Cole's spanish songs with Shanghainese songs from the 30s as well as score by Michael Galasso. Once again, the seemingly odd combo works surprisingly well together. Shigeru Umebayashi's 'Yumeji's theme' is particularly memorable and almost too 'painful' to listen to. Nostalgic (common theme in most Wong Kar-Wai's films), delicate and somber.
Great Expectations, Various artists (1998)
A lot of people don't like this contemporary remake, but I like this film. This is not a deep and intellectual film, but I think Alfonso Cuarón is an interesting and talented director, and has made this film stylish, cool and aesthetically-pleasant. His use of colours in the set and costumes reminds me of Peter Greenaway's 'The cook, the thief, his Wife & her lover'. Although I think Gwyneth Paltrow's acting completely overrated (I also find her bland and irritating), she is perfectly cast as the icy Estella. I love the soundtrack so much that I bought both the Score and album. The album features artists like Tori Amos, Pulp and Iggy Pop etc, both Tori Amos' 'Siren' and Mono's 'Life in Mono' are dreamy and seductive; Pulp's 'Like a friend' is upbeat and addictive and Cesaria Evora's 'Besame Mucho' is unforgettable. Consistent and excellent overall but quite different from the score... the score is more abstract and romantic, yet beautiful nonetheless.
The sound of music Various artists (1965)
Do I need to explain why this soundtrack is one of the best in film history? 'The sound of music' was my favourite film when I was a kid, and I knew all the songs by heart. I even visited many of the film locations when I was in Salzburg (I know how sad and cheesy it sounds), but I guess the film and soundtrack would forever be associated with my childhood, the innocent and carefree days. A wonderful and uplifting soundtrack.
Cinema Paradiso, ENNIO MORRICONE (1988)
One of the most beloved films of our times and one of my favourites, this beautiful and sentimental score is composed by the legendary Ennio Morricone and his son, Andrea Morricone. The final kissing scene is probably the most powerful and 'well-known' scene in contemporary cinema history. Both the film and music is timeless and very moving.
Other ENNIO MORRICONE recommendations: Since he has composed and produced so many soundtracks esp. the Spaghetti Western, it's hard to narrow them down to one or two. For me, Once Upon A Time in America (1984) is another classic and with many memorable and wonderful pieces of music. Just like Cinema Paradiso, it is timeless, nostalgic and beautiful.
Arizona dream, GORAN BERGOVIC (1993)
Before the arrival of internet, it took me years to find this CD! I wanted it after seeing the surreal early Johnny Depp film, but I couldn't find it anywhere in the UK nor Asia. Eventually, I found it on a European online music store about 5 years after seeing the film! Was it worth the wait? Definitely. Like the tone of the film, Bregovic's score is equally dreamy, and with the help of Iggy Pop, this album is eclectic, bohemian and dark. Probably not everyone's cup of tea, but I think this album is great and best be played you are driving through the desert in Arizona!
Other GORAN BERGOVIC recommendations: Bergovic is huge in Eastern Europe and France, and has done a number of soundtracks including Underground (1995) - Another film directed by Emir Kusturica, this soundtrack is equally impressive, and I esp. like the track, 'Underground Tango'.
Cousins ANGELO BADALAMENTI (1989)
This is a lovely soundtrack... heart-warming, sentimental, lavish and graceful. A remake of a French film with the same title, the film is romantic and charming. Not exactly flawless, but it is enhanced by this soundtrack and the radiant and beautiful Isabella Rossellini.
Other ANGELO BADALAMENTI recommendations: Probably most famous for his David Lynch soundtracks like Twin Peaks (1990) and Blue Velvet (1986). Both are great albums but the dark and desolated The City of Lost Children (1996) is also excellent.
Out of Africa, JOHN BARRY (1985)
An Oscar-winning score by the OBE composer, John Barry, this soundtrack is an all-time classic. Beautiful, delicate and soothing, perfect for the African setting. Mozart's Concerto for clarinet and orchestra in A works very well with Barry's original score. A masterpiece.
Other JOHN BARRY recommendations: It's almost impossible to pick one or two soundtracks from a legend who has been composing and producing film scores for over 40 years. My other favourites are The best of Bond... James Bond (1999): Need I say more? With all the classic and well-known James Bond tunes/ songs... this is a collectible item. Somewhere in Time (1980): Like the film, this score is romantic and dreamy, and the main theme is unforgettable. It has been years since I last watched the film, but it makes me sad to think of the late Christopher Reeve and his wife, Dana. I believe their love story was more tragic than the film's... a truly rare modern-day example of unconditional love between a couple.
French Kiss Various artists (1995)
A surprisingly great soundtrack of a typical Hollywood romance comedy. With names like Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong, Paolo Conte and The Beautiful South, it's hard to go wrong. The mood is lighthearted, romantic and very French!
The Godfather Suite: Music Featured in the Trilogy, NINO ROTA (1992)
The main theme of The Godfather must be one of the most recognisable score in film history, along with Star Wars, Sound of music, Doctor Zhivago and Romeo and Juliet etc. This compilation performed by The Milan Philharmonia Orchestra and conducted by Carmine Coppola is even better than the original film score of 'The Godfather'. The arrangement and performance is excellent, and it will bring back memories of Coppola's masterpieces.
The Sheltering Sky RYUICHI SAKAMOTO (1990)
I am a fan of Paul Bowles and because of this book and film, I went to Morocco for the 1st time in the early 90s. It was one of the best trips of my life, and I never forgot the beauty of the desert and oasis. This soundtrack by Sakamoto is beautiful, exotic and haunting, it completely captures the essence of the novel and film. A truly timeless soundtrack.
Other RYUICHI SAKAMOTO recommendations: In my opinion, Sakamoto's created many of his best work in the 80s and early 90s including soundtracks like Merry Christmas Mr Lawrence (1983) and The Last Emperor(1991). The main theme of 'Merry Christmas Mr. Lawrence' is probably Sakamoto's most well-known piece, and listening to it 26 years later, it is still remarkable and unique, how amazing is that?!
Amelie YANN TIERSEN (2001)
I have picked hardly any soundtrack from 2000 onwards, but this one is an exception. A well-loved film by the French director, Jean-Pierre Jeunet, this soundtrack is as delightful as the film. Tiersen's score is a fusion of different musical styles (traditional and experimental) and instruments including the accordion. The result is playful, refreshing, fascinating and one-of-a-kind.
A City of Sadness S.E.N.S. (1990)
This CD is from my early soundtrack collection, and I paid a high IMPORT (from Japan) price for it! There are not many tracks but Japanese instrumental group, S.E.N.S (which also produce many scores for Japanese TV dramas) did a brilliant job in creating an atmospheric and harrowing score. The music style is quite Japanese with a touch of Chinese influence, which is perfect for the Taiwanese director, Hou Hsiao-hsien's historical masterpiece.
Dernier Domicile Connu/ La Rapace, FRANCOIS DE ROUBAIX (1968 - 1969 - 1970)
Francois de Roubaix was a French composer whose music was influenced by jazz and electronic. Tragically, he died in a diving accident when he was only 36. A real shame esp. with such talents. Roubaix had produced many film scores during his short life and the score he produced for Jose Giovanni's Dernier Domicile Connu is a classic. The main theme is timeless, it feels and sounds so contemporary even after 40 years, just incredible! Atmospheric, experimental and COOL. Bravo!
The piano MICHAEL NYMAN (1993)
The first time I encountered Nyman's music was through Peter Greenaway's films. His music then was unconventional, experimental, complex and not at all mainstream, sometimes it's almost too heavy and hard to digest. People either love him or hate him. When I saw him performing live in concert many years ago, I was a bit overwhelmed by the intensity of his music. However, I think his score for The piano is more approachable (without being too commercial), it is enigmatic, melancholic and original, one of his best to date.
Other MICHAEL NYMAN recommendation: I would recommend The Essential Michael Nyman Band (1993) because it contains a selection of film scores he composed for Peter Greenaway. This is an essential album for those who enjoy his work.
Stealing home, DAVID FOSTER (1988)
Many critics hate this film, but I remember how much I liked it the 1st time I watched it (around 1990). The reasons are quite personal, partly because of the leads, the seaside setting, also because I was genuinely touched by the storyline. While some might find this film cheesy, I think it's romantic and a bit tragic. The film is about growing up, loss of innocence and dreams. I have watched it many times and I still love it after all these years! Every time I hear the song, 'And when she danced', it reminds me of Jodie Foster and William McNamara dancing together. There are also many great songs from the 60s in this album. Like the film, it's nostalgic, heartwarming and sad at the same time.
La Double Vie de Veronique - The Double Life of Veronika (1991) / Damage (1992) ZBIGNIEW PREISNER
I love Preisner's work, so it's hard for me to choose just one film score from so many of his brilliant scores. The first time I noticed Preisner's music was in Krzysztof Kieślowski's La Double vie de Veronique and since then, I have purchased 6 more of his other film scores. Just like Kieślowski's film, this particular film score is beautiful, haunting and illusive. Damage (directed by Louis Malle), on the hand, is complex, mysterious and sad. Preisner's philosophy background probably has a profound influence on his music because it speaks to our souls, it often captures the human emotions beautifully... sadness, despair, loneliness and passion. A truly remarkable composer.
Other ZBIGNIEW PREISNER recommendations: Kieślowski's "Trois Coleurs" trilogy, esp. Bleu (1993) and Red (1994) and Secret Garden (1993). Because of the subject matter, the score for Secret Garden is much 'lighter' than his scores for Kieślowski and Malle, yet it is still beautiful, refreshing and mesmerising.
A Clockwork orange, Various composers (1972)
A memorable and powerful classic by Master Kubrick, accompanied by an equally powerful soundtrack. Kubrick's decision to use classics such as Beethoven's '9th symphony' and 'Singin' in the rain' and incorporated into the film was simply a stroke of genius. And thanks to electronic synthesizer, Walter (later Wendy) Carlos', who experimented on the classical pieces, made this soundtrack even more appealing. Dated? I don't think so. I think his music style and the film works perfectly together. Remember that this was made almost 40 years ago, and without visionaries like Kubrick and Carlos, the world would never move forward. I have yet to listen to Carlos' original score for the film, which I heard is even better than the soundtrack...
Other Stanley Kubrick recommendations: Do I need to introduce 2001: A Space Odyssey? I doubt it. However, as much as I love Kubrick's films, I have never been able to sit through this film. Maybe Sci-fi films are not my cup of tea, but I really don't get this film! On the other hand, I like his much-criticised last film, Eyes wide shut and its soundtrack (1999). I love Shostakovich's 'Jazz Suite 2 Waltz 2', it's one of my favourite classical pieces. Dominic Harlan's Musica Ricercata No. 2 and Jocelyn Pook's Masked Ball just give me the creeps. And Chris Isaak's 'Baby Did A Bad Bad Thing' works surprisingly well as well amongst other classics like 'When I fall in love' and 'Strangers in the night'. An interesting and atmospheric soundtrack for an underrated film. Another collection for Kubrick's fans is the compilation, Eyes Wide Shut: Music from Stanley Kubrick Movies JOCELYN POOK (1999) which contains 'the best of' from Kubrick's many classics.
Buena Vista Social Club RY COODER, BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB (1997)
Thanks to Wim Wenders and Ry Cooder, forgotten members of the Buena Vista social club finally received the worldwide recognition that they deserved long ago. I wasn't familiar with these Cuban musicians until after watching the film/ documentary, and since then I have bought a bunch of CDs by musicians like Omara Portuondo, Ruben Gonzalez and Eliades Ochoa etc. Their music is full of passion, energy and playfulness, and it's hard not to be touched by their passion for music, esp. in a world where money and status seem to be the drive for many musicians today. This soundtrack is only an intro into the fascinating and wonderful world of Cuban music, most of their members have since launched their solo albums and they are all incredible. I highly recommend them all!
Other WIM WENDERS recommendations: Until The End Of The World Various artists (1991): This has to be one of the best road-movie soundtracks, it is cool, edgy, mysterious and a bit dark. I guess with names like U2, Depeche Mode, Lou Reed, Elvis Costello, R.E.M., Nick Cave and The Bad Seeds, Patti Smith, k.d. lang and Talking Heads, it's hard to go wrong.
Un Homme et une Femme FRANCIS LAI (1966)
A classic and romantic soundtrack by one of the most famous French film score composers who is famous for his scores for Emmanuelle and Love Story. This is the original French version, not the English one! The film is also a must esp. if you like Anouk Aimée. People always talk about how beautiful Sophia Loren and Catherine Deneuve were, but I think Aimée was also stunningly beautiful, elegant and a bit mysterious, yet she never received as much recognition as Loren and Deneuve. Even if you look at her recent photos, you can see someone aging gracefully... without the need of plastic surgery, she still looks good for her age (Isabella Rossellini is another example).
Other FRANCIS LAI recommendations: DES HOMME, DES FEMMES, Various artists (1991): This is a compilation album that I bought in Paris years ago, it contains Lai's most popular work including Love Story by Mireille Mathieu. Everything is in French, beautifully performed and digitally remastered, it's chic and effortlessly cool!
Red Rose White Rose, JOHNNY CHEN (1994)
Probably not many people have seen or heard of this soundtrack, but I think this album produced by Taiwanese musician/ composer, Johnny Chen, is quite outstanding (esp. for a non-Wong Kar Wai Hong Kong film). It won a Golden Horse Award (A Taiwanese Oscar) for best original score in 1994. The film is directed by a well-known Hong Kong director, Stanley Kwan, based on a Eileen Chang novel. The score and songs all incorporate with the setting (1930s) and mood of the film. Performed by Shanghai Symphony Orchestra, the score is influenced by jazz, Broadway, classical, religious, tango, zambra and Chinese music. Atmospheric, intriguing and tragic, you don't need to understand Chinese/ Mandarin to appreciate 'Fragrance of Roses', sang by Hong Kong singer, Sandy Lam. Simply mesmerising!
Music for films, ELENI KARAINDROU (1991)
I bought this film score compilation many years ago without ever watching any of the films and luckily, I was very pleasantly surprised. Greek composer, Karaindrou, has been Greek director, Theo Angelopoulos' longtime collaborator. This compilation contains scores for 3 of his films made in the 80s and 1990, even without watching the films, one could enjoy the beautiful music on its own. In some ways, it reminds me a bit of Gabriel Yared's Betty Blue, perhaps due to the fact that they were produced around the same period. Atmospheric, dark and mellow.
Wednesday, 19 August 2009
Thursday, 13 August 2009
Belgian chic... Antwerp
COOL, LAID-BACK, COMPACT, SLOW, FASHIONABLE, HISTORICAL, CALM, UNCONVENTIONAL, SUBTLE
The first time I visited Antwerp was in the early 90s, I fell in love with place instantly because despite the cosmopolitan side, it has a sense of calmness and understated quality to it. And of course, I was also very into their fashion back then... I vividly remember buying a pair of black Ann Demeulemeester trousers (I still have them) and a deconstructive-style scarf by Dries Van Noten. I remember shoving down waffles and fries constantly; and missing the last ferry back to England... it was a carefree period of my life. Then I returned again in 2001, stayed at the 'hip boutique' hotel, De Witte Lelie and ate at more upmarket restaurants than my previous trip. But eventually got sick from some bad mussels, luckily it all happened after I returned home.
After over 8 years, I went back for the 3rd time. The city is still charming and trendy but something has changed... There seem to be a lot more immigrants and I found the services in some of the restaurants, shops and museums quite appalling. It's unfair to generalise because there were some very friendly faces, but I also had some bad experiences (mostly in 'hip'/ trendy places, surprise, surprise): Uninterested, unprofessional or plain rude. Most of the time, they were just slow... this was probably down to lack of proper training. It's a shame because I like the city a lot but bad services are simply unacceptable.
Back to the city itself, since the centre is not very big, it is quite easy and nice to walk around. There are many interesting museums, Flemish architecture, good restaurants, cool fashion and vintage furniture shops, so it is necessary to spend at least 3 days to fully enjoy what the city has to offer. I love stumbling into small unknown galleries or walking past random street art installations, there are just so many hidden gems in the city waiting to be discovered.
Best time to visit: summer
Tip: Most museums are closed on Mondays, so go shopping instead!
My favourite museum:
Plantin Moretus Museum
This wonderful 16th century printing museum is an Unesco world heritage site. Apart from the printing facilities, there are offices, library, shop, dining room, kitchen and a beautiful courtyard. There is a fascinating collection of printing equipments, typographical materials, manuscripts as well as paintings by Ruben.
Besides the mainstream museums like Ruben's House and Royal Academy of Fine Arts, there are many excellent ones like: Fotomuseum, MoMu/ Fashion museum, Ethnographic Museum (closed until 2010), Rockox House Museum, Museum Vleeshuis (A former butcher's guild but now a music & instruments museum!) and Middleheim Museum (an outdoor art & sculpture park).
An egg and an apple on top of the Royal Academy of Fine arts museum
Interior of MoMu (Architect: Marie-José Van Hee)
Musical instrument workshop at Museum Vleeshuis
A church or an art gallery?
Other Must-see sights:
Cathedral of Our Lady - another world heritage site, this magnificent 14th century gothic-style cathedral is unmissable. It took over 100 years to complete and houses many masterpieces including some from Ruben.
Central station -This must be one of the most beautiful stations in the world!
Food & Restaurants:
There are many upmarket / trendy restaurants, brasseries, beer halls and cafes in town, as well as fries and waffles shops... not great if you are on a diet!
Restaurants:
Neuze Neuze - A cosy restaurant serving Belgian/ French cuisine, quite rich but high quality food.
Dock's cafe - Very popular restaurant/ bar near the Maritime museum. Good atmosphere and seafood, esp. oysters.
Facade - A small friendly neighbourhood restaurant in a lovely square.
Cafe/ restaurant Bourla - located inside the Bourla theatre, this wonderful cafe/ restaurant is spacious and relaxing. I love the surrounding area, so this place is a convenient and nice spot for snacks and drinks.
Grand Cafe Horta - Interesting architecture using the 'left-overs' from Victor Horta's art nouveau building in Brussels (demolished). Quite good food, relaxed atmosphere and friendly service.
Others:
Biologisch-Dynamische Bakkerij - I found this rustic and charming bakery/ cafe by chance, after walking out of the pretentious and rude Fiskebar (why put up with the Russian/ Moscow-style service in Antwerp?). Friendly service, cosy and very cute (esp. the school desk-like tables and the toilet area with an old large scale). Great place for breakfast/ brunch.
Frituur No. 1 - THE most famous fries shop in Antwerp! Whenever I see fries with mayo, I will always think of 'Pulp Fiction'! Not great for the health nor waistline, but who can resist these yummy fries?!
Van Hecke - A traditional waffle house since 1905, unpretentious and delicious!
Désiré de Lille - Probably a bit touristy and not a great place to linger, but the waffles are freshly made and the service is efficient and cheerful. Good place for a quick snack/ afternoon tea.
Günther Watté
A modern and stylish chocolate shop and tea room. A good place for a hot chocolate, cake and coffee, though the service was a bit slow and inattentive.
Shopping:
Antwerp is a great place for 'alternative' shopping, like unconventional fashion and jewellery, vintage clothing & furniture, antiques... and heaven for chocolate lovers!
Chocolates:
Usually I prefer French chocolates over Belgian ones (I am not so keen on pralines nor milk chocolates), nonetheless, it would be a crime not to indulge a little while I was there... Apart from the famous chocolate names like Neuhaus, Leonidas and Godiva, other high-end chocolate names like Hans Burie, Pierre Marcolini and Del Rey (by the station) are worth trying. But I was pleasantly surprised when I discovered a supermarket brand, NewTree, which has a wide range of high-quality, unusual and 'cheap' chocolate range. High cocoa contents (many are over 70%), natural (GM free) with unique flavours, they are irresistible! Try the more unusual ones like chilli, thyme and ginger, they are not too overpowering, just a hint that leaves in your mouth, subtle, smooth and not too sweet. The packaging is modern and simple, nothing fancy. I highly recommend them!
Fashion & jewellery:
Walter - Even if you are not into his funky and original designs, his former garage shop is worth visiting. There are also other conceptual fashion and jewellery designer brands here. Cool.
Melt 65 - This shop sells many up and coming designers from Belgium, Sweden and Denmark. Individual and cute, many items are affordable and wearable.
Access - Not a standard high-street shop, this shop sells cool home furnishing products, fashion accessories and jewellery. Tasteful and unique.
Wouters & Hendrix - This Belgian contemporary jewellery brand has been one of my favourites for years. I love their unique and cool pieces. Quite expensive, so best to stock up during their seasonal sales.
Others:
Philip's Biscuits: Believe the hype! I am addicted to their ‘Antwerpse Handjes’ (Antwerp Hands)... they are the best! And they even have sugar-free ones for diabetics! Not cheap but definitely worth it. The tins are very cute too.
There are many weekend markets in the city, but I like the small Sint Jansvliet antique/ flea market on Sundays. Probably not for real antiques, but there are many retro items on sale, esp. old tins/ toys.
Funky shop displays:
Akotee, a kitsch-themed shop
Shoe cobbler
Marge Simpsons advertising for a hair salon!
Interesting & unusual architecture:
Theater Place
A lovely B & B
Street Art
The first time I visited Antwerp was in the early 90s, I fell in love with place instantly because despite the cosmopolitan side, it has a sense of calmness and understated quality to it. And of course, I was also very into their fashion back then... I vividly remember buying a pair of black Ann Demeulemeester trousers (I still have them) and a deconstructive-style scarf by Dries Van Noten. I remember shoving down waffles and fries constantly; and missing the last ferry back to England... it was a carefree period of my life. Then I returned again in 2001, stayed at the 'hip boutique' hotel, De Witte Lelie and ate at more upmarket restaurants than my previous trip. But eventually got sick from some bad mussels, luckily it all happened after I returned home.
After over 8 years, I went back for the 3rd time. The city is still charming and trendy but something has changed... There seem to be a lot more immigrants and I found the services in some of the restaurants, shops and museums quite appalling. It's unfair to generalise because there were some very friendly faces, but I also had some bad experiences (mostly in 'hip'/ trendy places, surprise, surprise): Uninterested, unprofessional or plain rude. Most of the time, they were just slow... this was probably down to lack of proper training. It's a shame because I like the city a lot but bad services are simply unacceptable.
Back to the city itself, since the centre is not very big, it is quite easy and nice to walk around. There are many interesting museums, Flemish architecture, good restaurants, cool fashion and vintage furniture shops, so it is necessary to spend at least 3 days to fully enjoy what the city has to offer. I love stumbling into small unknown galleries or walking past random street art installations, there are just so many hidden gems in the city waiting to be discovered.
Best time to visit: summer
Tip: Most museums are closed on Mondays, so go shopping instead!
My favourite museum:
Plantin Moretus Museum
This wonderful 16th century printing museum is an Unesco world heritage site. Apart from the printing facilities, there are offices, library, shop, dining room, kitchen and a beautiful courtyard. There is a fascinating collection of printing equipments, typographical materials, manuscripts as well as paintings by Ruben.
Besides the mainstream museums like Ruben's House and Royal Academy of Fine Arts, there are many excellent ones like: Fotomuseum, MoMu/ Fashion museum, Ethnographic Museum (closed until 2010), Rockox House Museum, Museum Vleeshuis (A former butcher's guild but now a music & instruments museum!) and Middleheim Museum (an outdoor art & sculpture park).
An egg and an apple on top of the Royal Academy of Fine arts museum
Interior of MoMu (Architect: Marie-José Van Hee)
Musical instrument workshop at Museum Vleeshuis
A church or an art gallery?
Other Must-see sights:
Cathedral of Our Lady - another world heritage site, this magnificent 14th century gothic-style cathedral is unmissable. It took over 100 years to complete and houses many masterpieces including some from Ruben.
Central station -This must be one of the most beautiful stations in the world!
Food & Restaurants:
There are many upmarket / trendy restaurants, brasseries, beer halls and cafes in town, as well as fries and waffles shops... not great if you are on a diet!
Restaurants:
Neuze Neuze - A cosy restaurant serving Belgian/ French cuisine, quite rich but high quality food.
Dock's cafe - Very popular restaurant/ bar near the Maritime museum. Good atmosphere and seafood, esp. oysters.
Facade - A small friendly neighbourhood restaurant in a lovely square.
Cafe/ restaurant Bourla - located inside the Bourla theatre, this wonderful cafe/ restaurant is spacious and relaxing. I love the surrounding area, so this place is a convenient and nice spot for snacks and drinks.
Grand Cafe Horta - Interesting architecture using the 'left-overs' from Victor Horta's art nouveau building in Brussels (demolished). Quite good food, relaxed atmosphere and friendly service.
Others:
Biologisch-Dynamische Bakkerij - I found this rustic and charming bakery/ cafe by chance, after walking out of the pretentious and rude Fiskebar (why put up with the Russian/ Moscow-style service in Antwerp?). Friendly service, cosy and very cute (esp. the school desk-like tables and the toilet area with an old large scale). Great place for breakfast/ brunch.
Frituur No. 1 - THE most famous fries shop in Antwerp! Whenever I see fries with mayo, I will always think of 'Pulp Fiction'! Not great for the health nor waistline, but who can resist these yummy fries?!
Van Hecke - A traditional waffle house since 1905, unpretentious and delicious!
Désiré de Lille - Probably a bit touristy and not a great place to linger, but the waffles are freshly made and the service is efficient and cheerful. Good place for a quick snack/ afternoon tea.
Günther Watté
A modern and stylish chocolate shop and tea room. A good place for a hot chocolate, cake and coffee, though the service was a bit slow and inattentive.
Shopping:
Antwerp is a great place for 'alternative' shopping, like unconventional fashion and jewellery, vintage clothing & furniture, antiques... and heaven for chocolate lovers!
Chocolates:
Usually I prefer French chocolates over Belgian ones (I am not so keen on pralines nor milk chocolates), nonetheless, it would be a crime not to indulge a little while I was there... Apart from the famous chocolate names like Neuhaus, Leonidas and Godiva, other high-end chocolate names like Hans Burie, Pierre Marcolini and Del Rey (by the station) are worth trying. But I was pleasantly surprised when I discovered a supermarket brand, NewTree, which has a wide range of high-quality, unusual and 'cheap' chocolate range. High cocoa contents (many are over 70%), natural (GM free) with unique flavours, they are irresistible! Try the more unusual ones like chilli, thyme and ginger, they are not too overpowering, just a hint that leaves in your mouth, subtle, smooth and not too sweet. The packaging is modern and simple, nothing fancy. I highly recommend them!
Fashion & jewellery:
Walter - Even if you are not into his funky and original designs, his former garage shop is worth visiting. There are also other conceptual fashion and jewellery designer brands here. Cool.
Melt 65 - This shop sells many up and coming designers from Belgium, Sweden and Denmark. Individual and cute, many items are affordable and wearable.
Access - Not a standard high-street shop, this shop sells cool home furnishing products, fashion accessories and jewellery. Tasteful and unique.
Wouters & Hendrix - This Belgian contemporary jewellery brand has been one of my favourites for years. I love their unique and cool pieces. Quite expensive, so best to stock up during their seasonal sales.
Others:
Philip's Biscuits: Believe the hype! I am addicted to their ‘Antwerpse Handjes’ (Antwerp Hands)... they are the best! And they even have sugar-free ones for diabetics! Not cheap but definitely worth it. The tins are very cute too.
There are many weekend markets in the city, but I like the small Sint Jansvliet antique/ flea market on Sundays. Probably not for real antiques, but there are many retro items on sale, esp. old tins/ toys.
Funky shop displays:
Akotee, a kitsch-themed shop
Shoe cobbler
Marge Simpsons advertising for a hair salon!
Interesting & unusual architecture:
Theater Place
A lovely B & B
Street Art
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