Design festivals 2009 (London, Tokyo, Singapore, Hong Kong)

A column covered by plastic forks & knives at the Singapore design festival

Usually the three months before New year is a busy time for people working in the design fields because there are numerous design festivals across the globe in different major cities. I am not sure why all of them are squeezed into the 3-month period, because it is hard to pick and choose which one to visit/ attend. This year, I was able to visit four within 3 months and personally I think London's was not only the largest but the most well-sponsored and organised of the four. All the major designers and architects were in town, with tonnes of activities, exhibitions and lectures, I would say it was also the most 'matured' and 'glamourous'. I did feel a bit 'over-designed' after all the festivals, but it also allowed me to distinguish and recognise good designs when I see them.

Unfortunately in Singapore and Hong Kong, there were not so many young designers/ new designs that really stood out. I feel that young designers there are not ambitious enough and are still stuck designing 'decorative' everyday objects that have very little impact on our lives. I got bored of seeing fun mousepads, fancy placemats and candle holders, I think we already have enough of these items in the market, do we really need another pretty vase? However, in terms of the overall festival standard, Singapore was far more organised and enthusiastic, whereas Hong Kong was disorganised and a bit wishy-washy.

The themes that dominated almost all the design festivals were: 'eco-friendly', 'sustainability' and 'craftsmanship'. From what I have learnt, the design world is now entering a new stage, and the throw-away culture/ way of consumerism will soon be a thing of the past (Can't wait!). With the economical situation in the US and Western Europe, people are already changing their buying habits and way of living. I see this as the 'detox' or cleansing period, and hopefully all the changes will enable new ideas and opportunities to emerge very soon.

LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL (Sept)

The 9-day festival was jam-packed with exhibitions, talks, workshops and seminars, but perhaps it was too packed... I was exhausted after running around town for days and got sick afterwards... Perhaps my body just couldn't cope with the 'over-designed' brain!

100% Design London, Earls Court
I have been to at least three 100% design London and I have to say that this year's event was the most commercial and disappointing. Perhaps it had something to do with brand consultancy, JAM, taking over from Tom Dixon as the Creative designer(s)? I still remember the excitment I felt a few years back when I first attended the event, it was fresh, creative, inspiring and I could spend hours wandering... this year, I was bored after about 45 mins and I left just over an hour. Sadly, the most interesting part for me was the bicycle hall, the rest was either commercial and simply uninspiring!

FT Business of design seminars, Victoria & Albert Museum
I attended four out of five morning design seminars at the V & A and they were all excellent with interesting topics and well-known speakers/ designers like Tom Dixon, Jaime Hayon and the CEO of Liberty. The seminars explored different issues and trends of the design market, which I thought was insightful and informative, they were the highlights of the festival.

Other interesting events included a talk by the founders of Innocent on how they use creativity and design to relate to their customers; a talk on how craft and design thrive in recession at the British Library as well as free Greengaged events (including lunch & beverages) at Design Council.

TOKYO DESIGN WEEK (Oct-Nov)

Like London, many events were held in different parts of Tokyo within 10 days, but all the main ones took place in Aoyama and Midtown/ Roppongi district. Since Tokyo is already a Mecca to designers, it is probably not crucial to come during design week to experience what this city has to offer. However, it is interesting to see how the Japanese embrace designs and observe their reactions/ excitement at these design events. The Japanese love 'new' things but at the same time, they also appreciate 'old or traditional' things, so they are constantly creating something new by reinventing the past. For me, one of the most memorable event was the 'Design touch' exhibition where they showcased many inspiring and wonderful designs like the Aquaduct water purify bike (see photo below) by the design firm, Ideo.Another was Naoto Fukasawa's exhibition at 21_21 design sight museum, where design, art and photography all merged into one.

100% design, Aoyama
I had high expectations for this show, but was slightly disappointed. First of all, it was a lot smaller than the London one, and like the London one, many participants' products in the main hall were quite commercial. Most of the interesting work were outdoor and were produced by design students from different universities on sustainable designs.




Snoopy in Chanel!!



Design Touch, Midtown
This design event's aim was to promote "enjoyment of design through the five senses", and this year's theme was "realizing dreams through design". The Ideo design exhibition was a highlight for me...






DesignTide, Midtown
The DesignTide trade show not only exhibited Japanese products but also designs from all over the world by new and some more established designers. The rooms were filled with hanging 'clouds' made of cotton, which was quite fun... the standards varied but it was overall a visually stimulating experience.




SINGAPORE DESIGN FESTIVAL (Nov)

Just like the city itself, the Singapore design festival was very well-organised and the official website was informative and user-friendly (esp. for foreigners). There were many interesting exhibitions, talks and events around town and I was pleasantly surprised by the organiser's effort, which demonstrated the 'seriousness' of this festival. Although I wasn't struck by many major talents, I was impressed by their enthusiasm and devotion. A very good effort indeed.

The Design Gap – How Asian Brands Lose Out, free talk by brand consultant, Jorg Dietzel at Singapore Management University
This was an interesting talk on how Asian brands struggle to find their own identities and create global branding that appeals to a wider audience. Apart from Japan and Korea, it does seem odd that other Asian countries are unable to create global brands that appeal to the Western audience. Will this change in the coming years? We will have to wait and see.

Icsid World Design Congress Exhibition & Portfolio Show for Young Designers, Suntec City
A large exhibition where young local and foreign designers gathered to showcase their work. Interesting enough but nothing really ground-breaking.



Various exhibitions at City Hall
This was much more interesting than the conference room at Suntec hall, both in terms of venue and work. Designers were given their own rooms within the building and each had different themes and topics. 'V for vases' was one of the memorable ones where designers had to interpret/ re-invent the meaning of vases (see below).







Red Dot design awards, Red Dot Museum
I was surprised by the overall standard of the museums in Singapore but was particularly fond of the Red Dot Museum in Chinatown. The red building itself is unmissable but I think the organisers had done a great job in terms of utilising the space. It felt airy, contemporary and relaxing. The work exhibited were award-winning designs from the Red Dot design competitions. Definitely worth the trip!





HONG KONG: Business of design week (Dec)

Hong Kong was the last stop of my design festival tour in 2009, and my feelings were mixed towards this 2-week design festival. Reason 1: Unlike other cities, Hong Kong named its design week as 'Business of...', so the emphasis was more on the buiness side and charging $2,800 for a 3-day pass for the forums! Reason 2: 'Detour' delivered on concept but not on execution. Reason 3: Poorly organised with misprints in brochure and clueless telephone operators...

This was my experience: I followed the official detour guide and traveled to HKICC Lee Shau Kee School of Creativity to see an exhibition on Young Design Talent from Taiwan and Hong Kong. But to my surprise, the staff there said they had never even heard of the exhbition! I showed them the guide and one of the staff told me that it was probably a misprint and asked me to call the organizers (Hong Kong Design Centre). I called and spoke to an officer who was rude, clueless and told me the exhibition had already finished?! (I actually arrived on the 1st day of this 'mysterious' exhibition) The staff at the school were as bemused as I was, the whole experience just left me very peeved off... How could they get it so wrong?!

Detour, Hollywood Road
Back in Central, the Former Police Married Quarters on Hollywood Road was used as a base for many young designers to showcase their work, which I thought was a good idea. The bamboo scaffolding designed by William Lim was also very unusual and eye-catching. However, the 'beach' in the middle was quite pointless and the overall layout and intallations inside looked unplanned, rushed and very student-like. Like City hall in Singapore, designers were given individual rooms to exhibit their work. I think they could have done something a lot more exciting... but instead it all reminded me of some 1st year art/ design students' show!








HKTDC Inno design tech expo, Hong Kong convention and exhibition centre
A large trade show with designs/ products from all over the world. The Inspiration hall was the more interesting one and I particularly liked the packaging designs for Kanpyo udon by Japanese designer, Nosigner... kawaii-ne?



DesignEx 09: Young Design Talent from Mainland China, InnoCentre
I have to admit I was quite pleasantly surprised by the standards of young designers in China showcased here, particularly on graphic design. A lot of the designers explored their identities and created something unique, without looking tacky or over-Westernised. Although the design market is still very immature in China, but I can see the potential and I think these designers showed more creativity than many Hong Kong designers. I don't want to put Hong Kong designers down, but many of them seem to have some identity issues, they don't see the bigger picture and are stuck doing gimmicky designs that only cater for the local market. I blame it on laziness... i.e. if one idea sells, everyone will follow or do variations until the next idea appears, then everyone will switch and follow again...




Fa Pai (flower plaque) heritage - local craft aesthetics, Gallery @ HKICC Lee Shau Kee School of Creativity
Although I didn't get to see the exhibition I intended to visit, I visited this small exhibition on the traditional flower plaque craft which was quite fascinating. There were also some great photos on cage homes exhibited at the entrance...

A sensual & chaotic maze... Bangkok

BUSTLING, HOT, NOISY, LIBERAL, EXOTIC, HOSPITABLE, DIRTY, TRANQUIL, SEEDY, RELIGIOUS, CHEAP, COLOURFUL

I have visited Bangkok 4 times but I always feel disorientated when I am there, the place is like a maze... with many back and side streets yet without many obvious landmarks to direct you around the city. My feelings towards Bangkok is quite mixed, sometimes I think it's great but sometimes it just drives me crazy. It is a city full of contradictions, it can be chaotic and yet tranquil, traditional and yet open-minded... it's a city with many faces.

In this city, your senses are constantly being stimulated: the smell of street food, the endless traffic jams, high noise level esp. around the Sukhumvit Road area and the taste of spices... If you are tired of it all, there are hundreds of day spas or massage parlours to choose from where your senses can be stimulated again...but in a relaxing way!

From the minute you arrive at the airport until the day you leave, it would be hard not to notice photos of the (youngish) King of Thailand. He is everywhere. It is quite obvious that he is highly respected in his country. But even the King is unable to control the political turmoil within his country. Despite being a religious country, with almost 95% of the population being Buddhists (Theravada), a reglion that believes peace (inner and outer) is the solution to our problematic world, yet the continuous violence over the country's political issue reveals a different story. Part of the problem is to do with the inequality of wealth, the differences between the privileged and the poor is esp. obvious in Bangkok. I don't want to go into the political issue here, but through conversations with my Thai friends, I know that the situation is unlikely to go away and if anything happens to the King (health wise), the country will definitely suffer from another huge turmoil. It is a bomb waiting to explode.


Buddhism plays an important part in the Thai society

It's very hard to sum up a city like Bangkok, but here are some of my reasons for liking and disliking it.

The bright side:

Although there isn't much evidence of city planning, there are usually nice surprises behind the chaos... walking down the narrow alleys, you might come across a cute cafe or a spa hidden inside a tropical garden. In a way, it reminds me a bit of Tokyo where there are hidden gems allover the city, but a good pair of sneakers/ trainers and maps are necessary...

Low prices & hospitality: Bangkok is still relatively cheap compared to most developed cities. Luxury is easy to find but probably at less than half the price you normally pay back home. Together with hospitable services, it is no wonder why Bangkok (or Thailand) attracts so many tourists from around the world. The best deals I ever found were paying USD 100 per night (for two) at The Oriental (with river view) and Banyan Tree... Unbelievable!

Food: Despite the popularity of Thai food in the West, the best Thai food can only be experienced in Thailand. It is the freshness of ingredients, herbs and spices that are key to their cooking. Street food always looks tempting and the aroma is hard to resist.

Spas: Thailand definitely has the best spas in the world, it's not just the hospitality, but a combination of decor (use of wood and plants), smell (natural incense) and sound (water is often used as an alternative to music). It's almost impossible not relax in a Thai spa... the smell of lemongrass is my favourite.

The dark side:

Honestly, the seediness of Bangkok still disturbs me, esp. when I see old balding Caucasian guys hanging out with very young girls/ boys around town. I can't help but be repelled by the sights... I also took a peek at the street full of 'bars' where only Japanese businessmen are allowed to visit, it makes me wonder what is going on behind the closed doors?! My Thai friend thinks this market depends solely on the economies of scale... Call it exploitations or transactions, but mo matter how you call it, this is a part of Bangkok (or Thailand) that I do not like.

Traffic: Bangkok and Los Angeles used to regarded as the unofficial jammiest cities in the world in terms of traffic. Thankfully, since the opening of the Skytrain in 1999, traffic definitely improved a lot. Also with the rise of developing cities like Moscow and Beijing (both are now considered the jammiest), Bangkok has graudally slipped down the list, but it is still incredibly frustrating to be stuck in a Bangkok traffic jam and this could even happen at midnight!


The famous Bangkok traffic

Taxis: Whenever I am in Bangkok, I avoid taking taxis because of some bad experiences from the past. I have encountered many dishonest drivers who would deliberately 'take us for a ride'. I have been stuck in traffic jams for an hour and still arrived at the wrong locations! Beware!

Animal cruelty: Again, this is totally against the Buddhism religion, yet it can be seen allover the country. Despite elephants' symbolic status in Thailand, it is still being mistreated, together with monkeys and snakes etc, they are often chained up and used in shows to attract tourists. Walking past the upmarket Emporium Shopping Complex, I saw an elephant working as a 'prop' outside the mall in the heat for days because the mall is hosting a jungle theme festival. No one seems to be bothered by the sight, but I can't help but wonder where are the animal rights people when you need them?!


An elephant 'working' outside a shopping mall


Best time to visit: Bangkok is hot all the time but from around May to October is the rainy/low season (with daily showers every afternoon/ evening), so hotels prices are greatly reduced. High season is around the winter period when it is not as hot but still sunny.

Must-see sights:

The Jim Thompson House:
If you only have a few hours to do sightseeing in Bangkok, I would suggest visiting the Jim Thompson house. Although a little bit difficult to find, once you get there, it's like you are in a different world and time zone, the sense of tranquility can be immediately felt. This house is the best example of 'East meets West' architecture, everything is perfect and in harmony, even the mini exotic jungle fits in well with the surroundings. There are daily tours given and it's fascinating to learn about Thompson's intereting yet mysterious life, which makes the house even more appealing.




Jim Thompson house

Temples and Palace:
The 18th century Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha are key tourist attractions in Bangkok. The nicest way to visit is to hire a private guide ( for 1/2 or a whole day) who will explain the history and lead you through the complex. But remember to bring sunblock and hats because it can be extremely hot walking around.
Adjacent to the Grand Palace is the Wat Pho, the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok with a 46 meters long reclining gold Buddha. Truly spectacular!

Wat Arun, Temple of Dawn is another beautiful temple by the river, and easily accessible by boat.



Wat Arun

River Cruise
It might seem corny but river cruising in Bangkok can be fun and interesting esp. if you have time to visit the floating market. If time is limited, it's still relatively easy to do a short trip (board near The Oriental hotel) along the river, but be sure to avoid the animal shows, it's a tourist trap!



Houses by the river

Erawan Shrine/ Four-Faced Buddha
This is an interesting site in the middle of the shopping district, right next to Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel. Built in 1956 to eliminate bad karma of the State-owned Erawan hotel, this Hindu shrine is well-known in Asia and attract devotees (including non-Hindus) from many neighbouring countries. The Shrine is said to have power to make wishes come true, devotees make their wishes and offerings. And when their wishes come true, they have to return within the year to make offerings as a gesture of gratitude, otherwise, bad karma will reverse their good fortune.


The Erawan Shrine located between shopping malls and hotels

Museums & galleries:

Museum of Siam - This newly-opened (since 2008) interactive museum is suitable for adults and children. It is not only educational but the informal and well-designed setting provides a great opportunity for tourists to learn about the history of Thailand. A must for all!

Thailand Creative & Design Center on the 6th floor of the Emporium department store is a 'must' if you are interested in design. There are facilities such as a restaurant, exhibition halls, design library and design shop (that sells local and foreign designs). Material ConneXion, the well-known material rescources library is also located here (the only one in Asia), so it is possible to spend all day here!

Food:

To experience authentic, fresh and inexpensive Thai food, the best places are to be found on the streets. One of my all-time favourite cookbooks is David Thompson's Thai food, the inclusion of street food recipes makes a cut above the rest and it also sums up the importance of street food in Thai culture. I have never had better Pai Thai than on the streets, however, it is crucial to be careful to pick the right vendours because of hygiene reasons. Usually, if the vendour is popular with the locals, then the ingredients are most likely to be fresh. I also prefer to watch them cook just to be sure. I was told by my Thai friends ( chefs and restaurant owner) that the best place for street food is in the old Chinatown area and they promised to do a street vendour tasting in the area when I am next in town.


Street food stalls

Besides street food, food courts in shopping malls (like Emporium) also offer a wide range of cuisines if budget is limited. Otherwise, there are plenty of excellent restaurants in town and here are just a handful of them:

Bussaracum - A famous Bangkok restaurant that has been serving Royal Thai cuisine for almost 30 years. It has been named as one of the top Thai restaurants in Bangkok and even provides cooking classes. I dined at its Silom Road location a few years ago but haven't tried the new and trendier site in Sukhumvit. If you want to try elegant and Royal style Thai cuisine, then this is THE place to visit.

Le Dalat Indochine - A popular Vietnamese (with French accent) restaurant located inside a house from the 1950s. Great ambience and service with good and decently priced food.

Seafood market: If it swims, we have it - This bizarre 'conceptual' seafood restaurant is touristy and overpriced but the experience is definitely a memorable one! It is a cross between a large canteen (seats over 1500) and a supermarket. You would get your supermarket trolley and you can shop for your ingredients (mainly seafood and vegetables) like you do in a supermarket, you pay for them at the cashier and bring them to your table where waiters would ask you to choose your preferred cooking methods. They would charge you again for whatever cooking methods you choose. There is also a wine cellar where you can purchase wine to go with your food. It is hard not enjoy your meal here, even though you know it is quite overpriced. The whole experience, together with the fluorescent lighting and tacky decor make this place not only special and quite surreal!


A surreal dining experience

Gialong - Located inside the Central world shopping mall, this Vietnamese/ Thai restaurant is clean, modern and comfortable. The food is pretty good and decently priced, although there are better restaurants in town, it is the ambience that makes it stand out.

Kuppa - This popular cafe/ restaurant in a former warehouse serves good international cuisine and desserts. The spacious industrial setting is airy and relaxing, but the interesting part is the large coffee roasting machine in the corner of the restaurant where coffee is roasted, packaged and sold here. A great place to hang out both during the day and in the evening!

Agalico - This well-hidden colonial-style tea house & garden is very popular amongst local expats and foreign visitors. Owned by an interior & landscape designer, the all-white tea house is sophisticated, stylish and extremely tranquil. Afternoon tea is a must here and since it only opens from Friday to Sunday, it's best to reserve in advance to avoid disappointment.



Agalico

Shopping:

Chatuchak weekend market - This is the largest weekend market in Bangkok where you can find thousands of vendours selling handicrafts, tablewares, food and clothing etc. Best to visit when it's not too hot/ around midday because it can be quite unbearable to walk around in the heat!

Geo - This is a rather unusual lifestyle store that sells artistic and nature-inspired products. The shop is airy and stylish and most of the products sold here are locally made. Even if you are not in a shopping mood, wandering inside the store can be a pleasant and inspiring experience.

Propaganda - A local design store that sells gimmicky and playful products from stationery to housewares and gifts. An alternative choice for souvenirs if you are bored of the traditional Thai/ Asian style housewares.

It's happened to be a closet - Despite the ungrammatical name, this is a popular local designer fashion store inside the Emporium shopping mall. Items are pretty pricey but you can sit in the cafe outside or reserve the private dining room inside the store. Customers can also dine inside the store while shoppers rummage through piles of clothing around them. Definitely an unusual shopping experience in Bangkok!


Private dining room inside the fashion store, It's happened to be a closet

Spas & beauty:

It's hard to avoid seeing spas and beauty salons in Bangkok, they seem to be everywhere! Most four and five star hotels have in-house spas, but it's usually cheaper to visit local day spas which offer equally high standard treatments. Spa treatments in Thailand are much cheaper than most countries, hence they are popular amongst tourists, so it's best to book early esp. the popular ones.

If money is no object, then The Oriental spa is my top choice. First of all, you will need to cross the river via the hotel boat to get there, upon arrival, you will see a tropical oasis that is beautifully designed with exotic plants and teakwood. The best thing about the spa is that you will get your own treatment suite with private shower, steam room, jacuzzi and sound control system (you can choose to listen the sound of birds or water etc). Frequently voted as the best spa in the world by different travel magazines, it fully lives up to its title. Souvenir to take home: lemongrass body lotion.

Another impressive hotel spa is the BanyanTree spa which has a great view in the city. The spa is extremely popular, so it is best to book in advance.

Divana day Spa
With several locations in the city centre, this popular Thai-style day spa is an oasis in the city. The spa also offers a wide range of products available for purchase. Souvenir to take home: rose hand cream.

Refresh 24 spa
This large day spa offers a range of treatments at pretty low prices. Friendly, clean and centrally located, a great place for Thai massage.

Palette nail salon
There are many nail salons in the city but this one opposite the Emporium shopping complex is one of the best salons I have been to. Excellent service, clean, comfortable and decently priced, my pedicure lasted over a month, truly great value for money!

Architecture:


Not Tokyo but Bangkok...




A strange looking building... possibly from the 50s/60s?!


Cool

Street art












A tank inside a building?!!


I wonder if this still works?!